JPH0220273B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Field of Industrial Application This invention relates to a jig for sewing the collar of men's clothing.

Conventional Technology A double-breasted suit has a collar with a pointed inverted V-shape, commonly known as a sword collar. In the past, sewing techniques for suits have been significantly streamlined, but sewing the sword collar is the most troublesome and difficult part of a suit, so it is still done by hand by skilled workers. Also, compare and consider the amount of distortion (looseness) of the left and right collars,
Although sewing is done by machine, the left and right pairs of sword collars tend to be uneven, and especially in the case of fabric with a striped lattice pattern, a high level of skill and skill is required to create symmetrical work. In addition, this has become a bottleneck for the mass production of suits.

Problems to be Solved by the Invention This invention does not require advanced technology to sew the sword collar, can sew the left and right sword collars accurately aligned, and can easily make the handle symmetrical. This provides a sword collar sewing jig that can be matched.

Means for Solving the Problems In the sword collar sewing jig according to the present invention, a bottom plate, a middle plate, a pattern matching plate, and a top plate, which are stacked one after another, are connected at their base end portions so as to be openable and closable. The board and the top board share a guide edge for shaping the tip of the collar to be sewn, and the bottom board has a guide edge for shaping the collar tip to be sewn, and the bottom board has a guide edge for temporarily fixing the body fabric stacked on the board surface with a binding needle. A needle hole is provided, the middle plate is formed to have a thickness necessary to create slack in the outer material of the turned collar that is placed over the middle plate, and the pattern matching plate is placed on the outer material of the turned collar that is placed on top of the middle plate. and has a gauge edge for aligning the striped pattern symmetrically, and on the shaping guide edge of the front plate, a turned collar outer material protruding from the guide edge of the middle plate is brought together along the guide edge of the middle plate. It is characterized by a structure in which a protruding edge is formed to guide a sewing machine latch which is used to base-stitch the outer material of the collar and the best-season fabric.

Embodiment In FIGS. 1 to 4, 1 is a bottom plate constituting a sword collar sewing jig, 2 is a middle plate, 3 is a pattern matching plate, and 4 is a top plate, among which the bottom plate 1, the middle plate are The plate 2 and the top plate 4 are made of plastic, and the pattern matching plate 3 is made of metal. The base end of the metal handle plate 3 is supported by a plastic support plate 5, and the handle plate 3 and top plate 4 supported by the bottom plate 1, middle plate 2, and support plate 5 are sequentially They are stacked one on top of the other, and their base ends are connected with studs 6, and the bottom plate 1 except the thick middle plate 2, the support plate 5 of the pattern matching plate 3, and the top plate 4 can be opened and closed at the thinned fold line.

The bottom plate 1, middle plate 2, and top plate 4 are guide edges 1 for shaping the inverted V-shaped part of the collar tip to be sewn.
This is common to a, 2a, and 4a. Pattern matching board 3
It is narrow in width and is provided with an edge 3a for a stripe matching gauge at a portion retracted from the guide edge. In addition, a non-slip sheet 7 with high friction, such as sound paper, is pasted on the handle plate 3 near the gauge edge 3a.

The bottom plate 1 is provided with needle passage holes 1b at a plurality of locations near the guide edge 1a to facilitate the passage of binding needles, which will be described later.

The shaping guide edge 4a of the top plate 4 is provided with a protruding edge 4b that surrounds the shaping guide edge 2a of the middle plate 2. 4c is a mark indicating the sewing range.

5 to 7 show how to use the jig for sewing a sword collar having the above-mentioned structure to sew a sword collar.

First, as shown in Fig. 5, place the jig so that the bottom plate 1 is on top, open the bottom plate 1, and insert the front body fabric A, which has been cut into a predetermined shape, between it and the middle plate 2. Place the collar front cut on the guide edge 1 of the bottom plate 1.
In accordance with step a, the front body fabric A is temporarily fixed to the bottom plate 1 at the needle hole 1b of the bottom plate 1 using a binding needle device 8 such as a stapler (trade name).

Next, as shown in Fig. 6, turn the jig over together with the outer fabric A, open the front plate 4, insert the outer collar outer material B between the pattern matching plate 3 and the middle plate, and Connect the striped pattern line to the gauge edge 3a of the pattern matching plate 3.
Then, as shown in FIG. Gather along the edge 2a.
In this state, use the guide edge 4a of the top plate 4 as a guide for a sewing machine presser foot (not shown), and sew the area between the marks 4c and 4c on the top plate 4. Sew on outer body fabric A. After finishing the ground stitching using the sewing machine, the stitching needle is removed, the jig is removed, and the sword collar part is formed according to the conventional collar making procedure.

In the above collar sewing jig, adhesive may be used as a means of fixing the outer body fabric A to the bottom plate 1, but it takes time to bond and there is a risk of misalignment if the bonding is insufficient. Therefore, it is best to completely fix it with the staples mentioned above.

A thin plate is suitable for the pattern matching plate 3 because the top plate 4 is placed thereon to close it. As the thin plate, it is preferable to use a metal plate such as copper, which does not warp or deform due to temperature changes, but it is also possible to use a thin plastic plate. The anti-slip sheet 7 made of sandpaper attached to the back side of the pattern matching board 3 is effective in preventing the collar outer material B from shifting, but it may also be a thin cloth.
It is also possible to add a rough surface to prevent slipping. This pattern matching board is used when fabric with a striped lattice pattern is used, and is not necessary for fabric without a pattern.

The middle plate 2 is used to add slack to the back collar outer material B to be sewn over the middle plate, and has a thickness of 3 to 5 m/m.

When the front plate 4 is stacked on the middle plate 2 with the thin pattern matching plate 3 inside, the protruding edge 4b surrounds the guide edge 2a of the middle plate 2 because it is made of a reverse collar outer material B. This is to hold the back collar outer material B stably and to prevent the outer material B from being dragged when the sewing machine presser foot moves.

Effects of the Invention According to the configuration of the jig for sewing the collar of a suit according to the present invention, even an inexperienced person can accurately align the shapes of the left and right sword collars when sewing the collar of a suit, especially sword collars, and also enables the striped pattern lattice. In the case of fabrics, the pattern can be easily matched symmetrically. Therefore, by using the collar tip sewing jig of the present invention, advanced techniques and skills are no longer required for sewing sword collars, and even an inexperienced person can easily sew sword collars, and can also sew a large number of suits. It can greatly contribute to production.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a collar end sewing jig showing an embodiment of the present invention, Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the jig in an open state, Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view taken along the - line in Fig. 1, and Fig. The figure is an exploded perspective view, and FIGS. 5 to 7 are explanatory views of the use of the jig showing the collar sewing process. In the drawings, 1 is a bottom plate, 2 is a middle plate, 3 is a pattern matching plate, 4 is a top plate, 5 is a base plate, 1a, 2a, 4a are guide edges, 3a is a gauge edge, 1b is a needle hole, 4b is a protruding edge, 6 is a rivet, 7 is a non-slip sheet, and 8 is a binding needle.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A bottom plate, a middle plate, a pattern matching plate, and a top plate, which are stacked one on top of the other, are joined at their base end portions so that they can be opened and closed, and the bottom plate, middle plate, and top plate have edges for shaping the tip of the collar to be sewn. Commonly, the bottom plate is provided with a needle hole in a required part for temporarily fixing the body fabric stacked on the plate surface with a binding needle, and the middle plate is provided with a return collar that is stacked on top of the bottom plate. The pattern matching plate is formed to a thickness necessary to create slack in the outer material, and the pattern matching plate has a gauge edge for symmetrically aligning the striped pattern by placing it on the collar outer material overlaid on the middle plate. On the guide edge for shaping the board, there is a protrusion that guides the outer collar outer material that protrudes from the guide edge of the middle board along the guide edge of the inner board, and also guides the sewing machine latch that sewn the outer collar outer material and the best-looking fabric. A collar tip sewing jig characterized by a formed edge.