JPH0471051B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

[Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method for producing an oil-based cosmetic emulsion composition in a surfactant phase.
The present invention relates to a method for producing an emulsified composition for cosmetics using a hydrolyzate of elastin present in the nuchal ligament of animals such as cows as an emulsifier. [Prior Art] Nonionic surfactants such as spanned surfactants and tween surfactants, or surfactants made of various amino acid derivatives, have been used as oil-in-surfactant phase emulsion compositions conventionally used in cosmetics. The one used is known. [Problems to be Solved by the Invention] However, although the conventional surfactant-phase oil-type cosmetic emulsion compositions have sufficient surfactant action, they do not have sufficient safety and feel, and are especially difficult to use when used in various types of cosmetics. If a surfactant made of an amino acid derivative is used, emulsification is not sufficient, and there are problems such as the need for a separate emulsifier. The present invention was made in view of the actual situation of cutting, and is a surfactant phase oil that is highly safe, has an extremely stable emulsion system, has excellent moisturizing and water retention properties, and has an excellent texture. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing an emulsified composition for cosmetics. [Means for Solving the Problems] The present inventors have discovered that elastin hydrolyzate has moisturizing and
Based on the knowledge that elastin has excellent water-retaining effect and emulsifying ability, a new method for producing an emulsifying composition for cosmetics has been invented, and it has been used as a means to solve the above-mentioned problems. A second invention is characterized in that an aqueous solution containing a decomposition product or an elastin hydrolyzate and a polyhydric alcohol are mixed to form a surfactant phase, and an oil or fat is added to the surfactant phase. 0.1 to 5% by weight of an ionic substance consisting of an aqueous solution containing a hydrolyzate or elastin hydrolyzate, a polyhydric alcohol, and at least one of glycyrrhizin dipotassium salt, caseinate soda, sodium chloride, and potassium chloride.
The method is characterized in that a surfactant phase is formed by mixing the surfactant and fats and oils are added to the surfactant phase. The elastin hydrolyzate used in each of the above inventions is a polypeptide obtained by hydrolyzing elastin present in the nuchal ligament of animals such as cattle using a proteolytic enzyme, and has an average molecular weight of 10,000 yen. Approximately 100,000 are used. This is because those with an average molecular weight of less than 10,000 have poor emulsifying power, and those with an average molecular weight of more than 100,000 have poor solubility, and those with an average molecular weight of 50,000 to 100,000 are particularly preferred. be. In addition, the elastin hydrolyzate has a total polypeptide content of 0.001 based on the total weight of the emulsified composition.
It is blended in a proportion of ~10% by weight, preferably 0.1~5% by weight. This is because if the amount is less than 0.001% by weight, no emulsifying ability can be expected, and if it exceeds 10% by weight, no improvement in emulsifying ability, moisturizing, or water-retaining effects can be seen and the amount is wasted, which is economically undesirable. The elastin hydrolyzate used in the present invention can be obtained, for example, by the following method. For example, add 5 parts of purified water to 1 kg of crushed fresh frozen cow ligament, adjust the pH to 10.5 using diluted sodium hydroxide solution, boil for 1 to 2 hours, and dehydrate using a centrifuge. Add 5 parts of purified water to the residue, adjust the pH to 2.0 using dilute sulfuric acid, and then add 1 part to the residue again.
After boiling for ~2 hours and dehydrating using a centrifuge, wash with a large amount of water to neutralize the pH of the washing liquid. Next, after dispersing this in water from step 2, stir it in a blender, add proteolytic enzyme, and heat it at 60℃ for 6 to 60 minutes.
Partially hydrolyze for 8 hours. Then, this partially decomposed solution is boiled for 1 hour to inactivate the remaining enzyme, and then insoluble matter is filtered off to obtain the final polypeptide solution. The total amount of polypeptide in the polypeptide solution obtained by the above production method was 14.0 to
Contains 16.0w/v% and 2.0~ as total nitrogen
Contains 2.5w/v%. This may be used as it is, or it may be dried and powdered. The elastin hydrolyzate obtained as described above has a total polypeptide content of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsified composition.
It is blended in a proportion of % by weight. If the amount is less than 0.001% by weight, you cannot expect much emulsifying power, and if the amount exceeds 10%, not only the emulsifying power but also the moisturizing and water-retaining effects will reach a plateau, and there will be little benefit from using a large amount, and it will also be costly. It is also expensive and uneconomical. In this way, elastin hydrolysis has excellent emulsifying ability when used alone, but when used in combination with polyhydric alcohol or ionic substances, its emulsifying ability is greatly improved, making it an excellent product for use in cosmetics. An emulsified composition can be obtained. The polyhydric alcohol used in each of the above inventions has two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule,
For example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin,
Examples include diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, polyglycerin, sorbitol, maltitol, sorbitan, glucose, fructose, sucrose, maltose, etc., and one or a mixture of two or more of these can be used, but among these, glycerin alone or glycerin in particular It is more effective when mixed with other substances. The amount of polyhydric alcohol to be blended is preferably in the range of 1 to 90% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsified composition, and when used in a relatively large amount within the above range, the polyhydric alcohol is dissolved in the emulsifier continuous phase. It is useful for obtaining an oil-in-surfactant phase emulsion composition in which fats and oils are dispersed. Furthermore, the ionic substances used in the second invention, such as glycyrrhizin dipotassium salt, caseinate soda, sodium chloride, and potassium chloride, may be used alone or in the form of a mixture of two or more of them to improve the emulsifying power and improve the emulsified composition. Contributes to improved stability. The ionic substance is based on the total weight of the emulsified composition.
It is blended in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight. If the amount is less than 0.1% by weight, no effect can be expected, and if the amount is more than 5% by weight, no improvement in the effect is observed and it is of little use. In addition, in order to obtain a wider range of emulsified compositions and to expand the selection range of emulsification methods, other commonly used emulsifiers such as lecithin, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, and other nonionic surfactants (HLB3 ~14) It is also possible to use an ionic surfactant such as a fatty acid salt as a sub-active agent. On the other hand, the oils and fats applicable to each of the above inventions are not particularly limited, and include oils and fats commonly used in cosmetics, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, ceresin, and microcrystalline wax, olive oil, safflower oil, and mink oil. These include oil, animal and vegetable oils such as beef tallow, esters such as myristyl myristate and oleyl oleate, higher alcohols such as cetanol and oleyl alcohol, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid, and fragrances. , the respective composition ratios are arbitrarily selected depending on the objectives such as the appearance, usability, and stability of the system. The method for producing the emulsified composition for cosmetics of the present invention includes:
A surfactant phase emulsification method is applied. That is, first, appropriate amounts of an elastin hydrolyzate or an aqueous solution containing the same, a polyhydric alcohol, and an ionic substance as necessary are mixed, and then an oil phase component is added to form elastin in which the polyhydric alcohol is dissolved. An emulsified composition for cosmetics having an oil-in-surfactant phase is obtained by solubilizing or uniformly dispersing an oil phase component in a surfactant phase consisting of a continuous hydrolyzate phase or as a microemulsion. However, when other commonly used subactivators as mentioned above are used in combination, it becomes possible to use the usual solubilization inversion method, phase inversion temperature emulsification method, etc. As described above, the emulsified composition for cosmetics obtained by the production method of the present invention has high safety because the elastin hydrolyzate used as an emulsifier is a high molecular weight polypeptide substance, and also has gel-forming ability itself. Because of this, combined with the polyhydric alcohol effect, the emulsification system is extremely stable, and it has even better moisturizing properties.
It has a combination of water retention, film feel, and texture. Table 1 shows the PH stability of the elastin hydrolyzate itself in the PH range generally applied as cosmetics. In addition, during the evaluation in Table 1, "+" is slightly accepted.
"-" indicates no change.

[Table] According to Table 1, it was found that elastin hydrolyzate is extremely stable in the pH range where it is applied as a cosmetic. Next, Tables 2 and 3 show the results of evaluation tests conducted on the emulsified composition for cosmetics produced according to the present invention. Table 2 shows the emulsified composition for cosmetics (semi-nonaqueous emulsion) produced in Example 1 described later and a conventional nonionic emulsion in place of the elastin hydrolyzate (content 1.05% by weight) in Example 1. Activator (Tween
Semi-nonaqueous emulsion (Comparative Example 1) using N-lauroylglutamate polyoxyethylene 2 mol-2-octyl dodecyl ether diester: 0.5 wt% + N -Lauroylglutamate polyoxyethylene 5 moles stearyl ether diester: 0.13% by weight + polyoxyethylene-added aliphatic ether SAA: 0.42% by weight)
The results of various comparative evaluation tests with semi-nonaqueous emulsion (Comparative Example 2) using as an activator are shown below. Table 3 shows a conventional nonionic active agent (Tween 60: 0.5% by weight + Span 60:
0.55% by weight)) and an amino acid derivative (N-lauroylglutamic acid polyoxyethylene 2 mol-2-octyl dodecyl ether diester: 0.5% by weight +
N-lauroyl glutamic acid polyoxyethylene 5 moles stearyl ether diester: 0.13% by weight + polyoxyethylene addition aliphatic ether system
The results of various comparative evaluation tests with a semi-nonaqueous emulsion (Comparative Example 4) using SAA (0.42% by weight) as an activator are shown. In addition, in the evaluations in Tables 2 and 3, ◎ is "Excellent", ○
indicates "good", △ indicates "below good", and x indicates "bad". Regarding "safety," the criteria for judgment was the positive rate of a 48-hour closed patch test on the inner side of the upper arm conducted on each of 20 people, and for "stability," an aging test (- 5 to 40° C. for 2 months), and "feel" was evaluated by sensory evaluation during a 2-week usage test by 50 test subjects.

【table】

【table】

〔Example〕

Examples of the present invention are shown below. In addition, the numerical value of each component in each Example shows weight%. Example 1 Semi-non-aqueous emulsion Component A 15% aqueous solution of elastin hydrolyzate (average molecular weight approximately 90,000) Glycerin Propylene glycol 7.0 5.0 1.0 Component B Liquid paraffin 40.0 Component C Glycerin 47.0 Component A was mixed at a temperature of 70 to 85°C. A surfactant phase was formed, to which component B was gradually added, followed by component C and cooled. Example 2 Semi-nonaqueous emulsion Component A 15% aqueous solution of elastin hydrolyzate (average molecular weight approximately 50,000) Glycerin Sodium chloride 20.0 10.0 0.5 Component B Squalanesetanol 30.0 2.0 Component C Glycerin 37.5 Component A was mixed at a temperature of 70 to 80°C. A surfactant phase was formed, to which component B was gradually added, followed by component C, and the mixture was cooled. Example 3 Semi-nonaqueous emulsion Component A 15% aqueous solution of elastin hydrolyzate (average molecular weight approximately 70,000) Glycerin casein soda 7.0 5.0 1.0 Component B Liquid paraffin 70 40.0 Component C Glycerin 47.0 Component A was mixed at a temperature of 70 to 85°C. A surfactant phase was formed, to which component B was gradually added, followed by component C, and the mixture was cooled.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Elastin hydrolyzate or an aqueous solution containing elastin hydrolyzate and polyhydric alcohol are mixed to form a surfactant phase, and oils and fats are added to this surfactant phase. A method for producing a characteristic oil-in-surfactant phase emulsion composition for cosmetics. 2 an elastin hydrolyzate or an aqueous solution containing an elastin hydrolyzate, and a polyhydric alcohol;
Glycyrrhizin dipotassium salt, casein soda,
A surfactant phase characterized by mixing 0.1 to 5% by weight of an ionic substance consisting of at least one of sodium chloride and potassium chloride to form a surfactant phase, and adding oils and fats to this surfactant phase. A method for producing a medium oil type emulsion composition for cosmetics.