JPH0694416B2 - Make-up cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to an improved make-up cosmetic composition, which broadens the range of feeling of use of the make-up cosmetic composition, imparts a moisturizing effect to the skin, improves the uniformity of paste, and improves the duration of makeup. Further, the present invention aims to provide a new make-up cosmetic for the purpose of preventing dispersion of oil gel products, filling properties and caking of powder products.

In recent years, the consumer-oriented diversification of cosmetics has been advanced, and it has been required to provide products corresponding to skin properties when considering make-up cosmetics. For example, people with normal skin or dry skin have a feeling of using cosmetics,
There is a strong demand for a moisturizing feeling in the cosmetic finish, and for this reason, powder products and oil gel products have been made into a rich prescription system to impart a moisturizing feeling to the skin. However, the emollient effect using only an oil agent has its own limit, and recently, many women complain of a kind of dryness, and it is not necessarily the case that the demand of consumers is met.

On the other hand, for people with oily skin who have severe sebum secretion, powder products and oil gel products containing only ordinary oils
After a lapse of 15 to 30 minutes, the cosmetic film became familiar with the sebum, became transparent, and disappeared in many cases, and there was a significant drawback in terms of the durability of the cosmetic effect. Therefore, in order to maintain the durability of the makeup lasting and prevent the oily makeup film due to the oil content in oil gel products, we have been dealing with it by making powders a more prescriptive system, but it is still unsuccessful with regard to the durability of the makeup lasting. It is sufficient, and the cosmetic film often breaks down relatively easily. The way the cosmetic film breaks down is that powders form a lump and smash into the pores and skin creases peculiar to oil gel products, or it slumps into spots, or deposits on nameless lines. Even hindered the effect of.

In order to improve the above drawbacks, skin moisturizing ingredients (such as water-soluble ingredients) have been added to oil gel products and powder products, but when the skin moisturizing ingredients are simply added to the prescription system, For example, in oil gel products, the skin moisturizing ingredients and oils have a poor affinity for separation, or the pigment aggregates to inhibit its dispersibility, causing pigment floating, flow marks during filling, or The viscosity of the prescription system was remarkably increased, which made filling and molding difficult, and the appearance of the filled contents became uneven, and cracking also caused quality deterioration. On the other hand, in the case of a powder product obtained by oil-coating powder, the lightness is remarkably reduced, the hue is also shifted, and the deviation between the coating color and the appearance color is large, and the original make-up effect is impaired.

Therefore, the present inventor, as a result of earnest research to overcome these drawbacks, found that it is preferable to blend a compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule containing a water-soluble skin moisturizing component in make-up cosmetics, The present invention has now been completed.

The present invention is an acrylic ester, a methacrylic ester,
Consisting of a homopolymer or copolymer formed from one or more monomers selected from vinyl acetate, styrene, or formed from said monomer and a monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, divinylbenzene, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate A resin capsule comprising a copolymer, wherein the resin capsule contains a liquid substance comprising one or more of water or a water-soluble skin moisturizing component, and the amount of the liquid component contained in the capsule is 50 to 50% of the total amount of the capsule. 90% by weight, the particle size of the capsule is 2 to 20μ, pressure resistance (breakage)
A make-up cosmetic composition comprising one or more compression-disintegrating spherical resin capsules having a strength of ² to 40 kg / cm ² .

The compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule referred to here is a resin capsule configured to release the encapsulated water-soluble skin moisturizing component by destroying the resin film of the capsule by the pressure of the finger during the makeup operation. Say.

The compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule applied to the present invention has a particle size of 2 to 20 μm. Capsule particle size is 2
When it is smaller than μm, when used as a make-up cosmetic, the feeling effect on the skin (smoothness, softness, spreadability) expected from the shape called soft sphere is not much,
Further, if it exceeds 20 μm, a rough and unnatural feeling is generated.
Further, the spherical shape in the capsule naturally includes an elliptical shape and other similar spherical shapes in addition to a true spherical shape.

Furthermore, the amount of the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule containing a water-soluble skin moisturizing component incorporated in a make-up cosmetic composition varies depending on the intended product type, but 0.
A suitable range is 1 to 90 weight percent.

The compressive-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule in the encapsulated state has a pressure (breaking) strength of about ² to 40 kg / cm ² , preferably ² to 30 kg / cm ² . If the compressive strength is lower than 2 kg / cm ² , it is unsuitable when used in make-up cosmetics, because it is easily destroyed by external pressure or impact force in the process of using equipment.

On the other hand, if the compressive strength exceeds 40 kg / cm ² , it is not preferable because the capsule is not destroyed during the makeup operation.

The amount of the components encapsulated in the compressible disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule is 50 to 90% by weight based on the whole capsule. If the content is less than 50% by weight, it is difficult to obtain the effect unless the amount of the capsules in the make-up cosmetics is significantly increased, which is disadvantageous in view of economic cost. On the other hand, when it exceeds 90% by weight, the strength of the capsule shell is remarkably lowered, and it is not practically used in view of the pressure resistance strength of the film.

The material applied to the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule of the present invention, when containing a water-soluble skin moisturizing component, obtains its storability, so the capsule membrane is sufficiently impermeable to these inclusions. The one having is selected and used. Since it is necessary to add it to the cosmetic composition, it is preferable that the capsule film does not contain a monomer or the like that may have a harmful effect.

And, the compression-disintegrating resin capsule of the present invention is preferably amorphous and transparent (light transmissive) itself,
For example, a homopolymer formed from one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid ester (methyl ester, ethyl ester, etc.), methacrylic acid ester (methyl ester, ethyl ester, etc.), vinyl acetate, styrene, or the like. A copolymer or a copolymer formed from the above monomer and a monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, divinylbenzene and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate satisfies the above conditions.

Next, as the water-soluble skin moisturizing component encapsulated in the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule, water, alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, Polyhydric alcohols such as polyglycerin, glucose, galactose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose, sorbitol, mannitol, sugars or sugar alcohols such as xylitol, polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside,
Sugar derivatives such as polyoxypropylene methyl glucoside,
Dextrin, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, polysaccharides such as heparin, glycine, alanine, glutamic acid, serine, arginine, amino acids or related substances such as PCA soda, collagen and other polypeptide,
Organic acid salts such as sodium citrate, sodium lactate and sodium malate, water-soluble vitamins such as vitamins B ₁ , B ₆ and C, nicotinic acid and pantothenic acid, or vitamin-like acting substances, other inositates, phytic acid, various Examples thereof include crude drug extracts, but any material is applicable as long as it is a cosmetically applicable raw material that is soluble in water and can exhibit some skin moisturizing effect (moisturizing effect). When these water-soluble components are solid substances such as powders, they are dissolved as an aqueous solution or in other liquid water-soluble components such as alcohol and finally encapsulated as a liquid in a capsule.

The method itself for producing the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsules of the present invention is as follows. That is, the homopolymer or copolymer of the above-mentioned raw material such as methacrylic acid ester is dissolved in an appropriate organic solvent to obtain the oil phase (O). The various skin moisturizing components (W) described above are emulsified and dispersed therein to form a W / O emulsion, and an organic solvent which is a non-solvent for the polymer or another polymer which causes precipitation of the polymer is further formed therein. Addition to deposit the polymer in the form of a film around the skin moisturizing component (phase separation method), or disperse the above W / O type emulsion in an aqueous phase containing an emulsifier, W / O / W type multiple emulsion Then, the organic solvent in the oil phase is removed under heating and / or reduced pressure to form a polymer film around the skin moisturizing component (in-liquid drying method).
The target particle size, inclusion amount, and pressure resistance can be adjusted by selecting the type of capsule material, the ratio of the capsule material to the inclusion component, the dispersion conditions, or the amount and type of emulsifier.

Hereinafter, the manufacturing method will be described in more detail with reference to specific examples.

Production example 1. B was gently added to A and emulsified in a homomixer at 10,000 rpm. Next, while stirring at 6,000 rpm so as to make the entire system uniform, C was gently added dropwise to form spherical resin capsules containing PEG200. The obtained capsules were filtered, washed with petroleum ether and dried. This product has an average particle size of about 15 μm and a PEG200 content of 81.6%.
The pressure resistance was 3 to 5 kg / cm ² .

Production example 2. B was gently added to A and emulsified in a homomixer at 8,000 rpm to form a W / O emulsion. Then this is C
And then stir at 1,000 rpm in a homomixer and
O / W type multiple emulsion was formed, and toluene was distilled off under reduced pressure of an aspirator while heating the diameter to 60 ° C. The obtained capsules were filtered, washed with water and dried. This product had an average particle size of about 10 μm, the amount of hyaluronic acid aqueous solution included was 73.1%, and the compressive strength was 9 to 12 kg / cm ² .

The features of the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsules applied to the present invention will be described in detail below. First, within the same dosage form, the feeling of use (feel) changes greatly, and its width is arbitrary. It can be changed. For example, in a free-flowing powder product containing a compressible disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule, the encapsulated water-soluble skin moisturizing ingredient is exposed to break the powder into a powder. The interaction between the coated oil and water-soluble skin moisturizing ingredients makes the skin more moisturized,
It keeps the skin moist and prevents the feeling of dryness during makeup.

In the case of make-up cosmetics coated with only ordinary oil, the thickness of the applied makeup film is not uniform and the powder appears to float or the adhesiveness disappears over time. This is originally due to weak adhesion and adhesion to the skin, which is manifested as weakness of makeup lasting. When the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule of the present invention is used, a part of the water-soluble skin moisturizing component is covered in layers to cover the powder particles adhered to the skin in a non-uniform thickness. Improves the adhesion to the skin and evens out the powder particles that are excessively and non-uniformly adhered to the skin, or helps remove excess powder particles from the makeup tool (puff) by removing them. It greatly contributes to the improvement of rice cake.

Furthermore, when purified water or ethanol is used as an encapsulating substance, a powder having a refreshing feel and a refreshing feeling can be obtained by breaking the capsule.

Further, when the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule of the present invention is applied to an emulsion type foundation, the substance encapsulated in the capsule does not directly affect the emulsification, so the effect on the viscosity,
Regardless of stability or usability, substances can be blended according to the purpose, and the touch and usability found in conventional emulsion type formulations need not be taken into consideration, and the touch range can be expanded. .

Secondly, the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule has no sense of foreign matter to the touch after use, and visually does not remain on the skin at all. The reason for this is that the capsule has a spherical shape and elasticity, and has the property of being appropriately broken on the skin by an external force during use. The broken shell fine particles become a thin plate that adheres to the skin, and the capsule itself has a large transparency (light transmission) and has an affinity for oil. This is because the above feeling will not be felt at all.

Moreover, the fragments of the capsules are filled in the recesses such as wrinkles and wrinkles, and the transparency of the capsules gives a natural finish feeling.

Third, even if the content of the water-soluble skin moisturizing component in the powder product is substantially larger than the amount usually sold on the market, the puffiness and the skin-adhesiveness can be improved. Quality can be maintained and improved without causing deterioration of uniformity or caking phenomenon of powder. In the commercially available powder products, the powder surface is coated with an oil agent, etc., but the caking phenomenon occurs due to the weight of the coated powder itself and the adhesive force of the coated oil agent due to the increase in the amount of the oil agent, and the powder adheres to the puff. When applied to the skin, the spread is heavy, it is difficult to spread uniformly, and the applied film is unevenly attached to the skin, and the makeup effect is significantly reduced. A powder product containing a compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsule contains various substances that are water-soluble and has a moisturizing effect in the capsule, so it has low adhesion, high fluidity, light powder, and spreadability. It is light and makes the coating film on the skin uniform and enhances the makeup effect.

On the other hand, in powder products where the amount of oil is reduced, the exposed water-soluble skin moisturizing component is compatible with the skin due to the destruction of the capsule, and also contributes to wetting with the powder.
By improving the adhesion of the powder to the skin, the durability of makeup lasting,
It is possible to eliminate the factors that increase the adhesiveness and reduce the make-up effect such as whitening and fluffing.

Fourthly, in water-based, non-water-based, dispersion-type, emulsification-type cosmetics, the water-soluble skin moisturizing component may cause decomposition and deterioration due to interactions such as pH of the system and surface activity of powder. . Therefore, by encapsulating the water-soluble skin moisturizing ingredient, it is possible to cut off the water-soluble skin moisturizing ingredient and their interaction, and stabilize the water-soluble skin moisturizing ingredient.

Fifth, by encapsulating a water-soluble skin moisturizing component, it is possible to prevent, for example, thickening of the cosmetic system due to the interaction with other components, and when the capsule is broken, the oil agent, the powder and the water-soluble component are dissolved. The makeup film is strengthened by the interaction with the skin moisturizing component, the affinity and adhesion with the skin are further improved, and a make-up cosmetic having a long-lasting cosmetic effect regardless of the skin property is obtained. .

Next, in order to show that the make-up cosmetic composition containing the compression-disintegratable soft spherical resin capsule according to the present invention is excellent in the feeling of use and is effective for people having a wide range of skin quality characteristics, the following examples ( Using the make-up cosmetics of the present invention of 1) to (3) and a make-up cosmetic of commercial products, a long-term continuous comparative test was conducted by 100 women. Here, the commercially available product does not contain a resin capsule, the amount of the inclusions corresponding to the product of the present invention is directly added to the cosmetics, other components have a composition almost equivalent to the product of the present invention. Have. The results are shown in Table-1. Further, regarding the powder foundation (Example 2 and comparative product), in order to verify the difference in effect depending on the skin quality characteristics, the 100 women were classified according to skin quality (28 for oily, 28 for normal,
The dryness was 44), and a functional profile was prepared (maximum 10 points in the evaluation area), and the results are shown in Table 2.

As shown by the results in Tables 1 and 2, the make-up cosmetic composition of the present invention is markedly superior in all respects to the commercially available make-up cosmetic composition of the comparative product, and in terms of skin quality, In terms of the moisturizing effect, which is one of the purposes, it became clear that the more dry the skin, the more effective it was.

In order to further evaluate how the make-up cosmetics containing the compression-disintegrating soft spherical resin capsules according to the present invention have excellent effects, a comparative test with cosmetics containing other microcapsules was conducted. .

Sensory evaluation test <Sample> Inventive product 1: Face powder of Example 1 Comparative product 1: Soft spherical resin capsule (MMA) in Example 1 was used as a nylon capsule (95%) liquid paraffin dispersion in Comparative Production Example 1. Replaced face powder Comparative product 2: Soft spherical resin capsule (MMA) in Example 1 was replaced with dextrin capsule of Comparative Production Example 2 Comparative product 3: Soft spherical resin capsule (MMA) in Example 1 was replaced. Face Powder Substituted with Gelatin Capsule of Comparative Production Example 3 Comparative Product 4: Face Powder in which the Soft Spherical Resin Capsule (MMA) in Example 1 is Substituted with Urea-Formaldehyde Capsule of Comparative Production Example 2 Inventive Product 2: Example Oil stick foundation of No. 3 Comparative product No. 5: Soft spherical resin capsule (MMA / styrene) in Example 3 was compared with Comparative Production Example 1 Oily Stick Foundation Substituted with Nylon Capsule (95%) Liquid Paraffin Dispersion Comparative Product 6: Oily stick foundation in which the soft spherical resin capsule (MMA / styrene) in Example 3 was replaced with the dextrin capsule of Comparative Production Example 2. Comparative product 7: Oil-based stick foundation in which the soft spherical resin capsule (MMA / styrene) in Example 3 was replaced with the gelatin capsule of Comparative Production Example 3 Comparative product 8: Soft spherical resin capsule in Example 3 ( MMA / styrene) was replaced by the urea-formaldehyde capsule of Comparative Production Example 4 <Method> The make-up cosmetics of the present invention products 1 and 2 and comparative products 1 to 8 were treated by 15 specialist panels for facial treatment. Create a sensory profile when applied to the skin (maximum of 10 evaluation values), and the result Mean values) are shown in Table 3.

As is clear from the results of Table 3, the make-up cosmetics of the product of the present invention containing the microcapsules of the present invention are:
Compared with the conventional makeup cosmetics containing the microcapsules, all the evaluation items showed significantly superior effects. This is in addition to the degree of change in feel due to the smoothness during application, which depends on the characteristics of the resin, the good adhesion and the uniformity of the paste, the natural finish (makeup appearance) based on the affinity with oil and transparency. Particle size, particle shape, breaking strength,
This is a proof that the combination of the types of inclusions, etc., has shown an excellent effect.

Comparative Preparation Example 1. 25 ml of polyethylene glycol (PEG200) was placed in an ice-cooled 5 liter round bottom flask and then 0.4M 1,6-hexamethylenediamine was added to 0.45M NaHCO ₃ —Na ₂ CO ₃ PH 9.8. After adding 75 ml of the solution dissolved in the buffer solution, 600 ml of a mixed solvent of liquid paraffin / cyclohexane (1:99) containing 1% by weight of sorbitan trioleate was added, and the mixture was transferred to a homomixer for 10,000 R.
Stir for 5 minutes at PM. Then, the dispersion was transferred again to a 5 liter round bottom flask, 930 ml of cyclohexane containing 1% by weight of sebacoyl chloride was added dropwise while continuing ice cooling and stirring, and after completion of the addition, stirring was continued for 30 minutes to complete the reaction. , Evaporate to remove cyclohexane, and use nylon capsule (95%) liquid paraffin dispersion 10
2g was obtained.

(Encapsulation rate of PEG200 aqueous solution: approx. 92%, average particle size: approx. 20μ) (Note) Nylon capsules are made by the sea surface polycondensation method, so only a very thin shell thickness can be obtained, and the strength is weak and fragile in the free state. Therefore, a liquid paraffin dispersion was used.

Comparative Preparation Example 2. 200 m of water in a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer.
1, 35 g of dextrin and 1 g of POE sorbitan monooleate were added and dissolved with stirring. Next, 15 g of liquid paraffin was added to this, and after stirring, the mixed solution was transferred to a homomixer and stirred at 10,000 RPM for 5 minutes. Then, the dispersion was again transferred into the three-necked flask, 200 ml of ethanol was added, and the mixture was left for 2 hours and then dried by spray drying to obtain 46 g of dextrin capsules.

(Liquid paraffin inclusion rate: about 30%, average particle size: about 25
μ) (Note) Dextrin capsules contain no water-soluble components, so capsules were prepared according to the description in USP 3,947,571.

Comparative Production Example 3. Polyethylene glycol (PEG200) containing 5% aqueous gelatin solution as solution A, 1% tannic acid and solution 19% as solution B
A solution was prepared. Next, liquid A was introduced into the external injection passage of the liquid delivery pipe device with a double orifice nozzle having an inner diameter of 30 μ and an outer diameter of 50 μ (inner wall thickness 5 μ), and liquid B was introduced into the internal injection passage, and 300 ml of cyclohexane was added. It was slowly added dropwise into a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer. After the dropping was completed, the mixture was stirred at 250 RPM for 2 hours, filtered, and then dried at 40 ° C. to obtain a gelatin capsule.

(PEG200 encapsulation rate: about 65%, average particle size: about 35μ) Comparative Production Example 4. 200m of water in a 500ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer.
Pour l, urea 15g, formalin (formaldehyde 37% aqueous solution) 20ml, add 5% sodium hydrogen carbonate PH9
Then, 2 g of POE sorbitan monooleate was added. Then, it heated at 60 degreeC and continued stirring for 2 hours. Next, the reaction solution was transferred to a homomixer, 80 g of isopropyl myristate (IPM) was added thereto, and the mixture was stirred and dispersed at 10,000 RPM for 5 minutes, and then the dispersion solution was transferred to a three-necked flask, and 0.1N while continuously stirring. The pH was adjusted to PH2 by adding hydrochloric acid. After 30 minutes, the temperature was raised to 80 ° C. and left for 2 hours, then filtered, washed with water and dried to obtain 88 g of urea-formaldehyde capsules.

(IPM encapsulation rate: approx. 80%, average particle size: approx. 28μ) (Note) Urea-formaldehyde capsules do not contain water-soluble components because they are addition-polymerized in an aqueous system, so Fragrance Journal No. 57 (1982) P78 Capsules were prepared according to the description in.

Next, examples of the present invention will be described. The mixing ratio is% by weight.

Example 1. Phase powder A is mixed with a Hensiel mixer at low speed for 5 minutes, and then pulverized and mixed with a pulverizer. This milled mixture is then
Transfer to a Hensiel mixer, and at room temperature, inject B while stirring at high speed and stir for 5 minutes, then inject C further 3
After stirring for 1 minute, D is added, and the mixture is stirred at low speed for 2 minutes, and then taken out, passed through a blower shifter, and filled in a container to obtain a product.

Example 2. Powder foundation After mixing A with a Hensiel mixer for 10 minutes by high-speed stirring, it is crushed and mixed with a crusher. Then, the ground mixture is transferred to a kneader and kept warm at 67 ° C. Separately, the mixture was heated and dissolved at 85 ° C. C was added to Atta B, and D and E were further added to disperse the mixture uniformly. Add C, D, and E to A and gradually add B. 2
Knead for 0 minutes, then fill into a container to obtain a product.

Example 3. Oil-based stickers A is heated to 80 ° C., B is added little by little while stirring and dispersed uniformly, and then C is added and directly charged into a container while keeping at 80 ° C. Then, it is left to cool to obtain a product.

 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (72) Koichi Iyanagi, Koichi Iyanagi 27 Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa 1 Pola Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. Yokohama Research Laboratory (72) Masayoshi Nagai 27 Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa No. 1 Yokohama Research Laboratory, Pola Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. (56) Reference JP 55-141405 (JP, A) JP 52-8795 (JP, B2) US Patent 3947571 (US, A) Fragrance Journal No. 57, p. 54-60, p. 66-69, P. 77 ~ 82 (1982)

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A homopolymer or a copolymer formed from one or more monomers selected from acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinyl acetate and styrene, or said monomers and acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, divinylbenzene, ethylene. A resin capsule comprising a copolymer formed from a monomer selected from glycol dimethacrylate, the resin capsule containing water or a liquid substance containing one or more water-soluble skin moisturizing components, and the capsule is encapsulated in the capsule. The content of the liquid component contained in the capsule is 50 to 90% by weight of the whole capsule, the particle size of the capsule is 2 to 20μ, and the pressure resistance (breakage) is high.
A make-up cosmetic composition comprising one or more compression-disintegrating spherical resin capsules having a strength of ² to 40 kg / cm ² . 2. The water-soluble skin moisturizing component is one or more selected from alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, sugars or sugar alcohols, sugar derivatives, polysaccharides, amino acids, polypeptides, and organic acid salts. The make-up cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is a liquid substance. 3. The makeup cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the water-soluble skin moisturizing component contains at least one selected from water-soluble vitamins and vitamin-like active substances. .