JPH07852B2 - Measuring Method of Colored Thread Usage in Sewing Pattern with Multi-cutter Force Loom - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention is a thread commonly called "upper body" such as gold and silver thread, foil, and picture weft thread, which is necessary for forming a sewing pattern in a woven fabric with a sewing pattern by a multi-cutter force loom ( Hereinafter, these are simply referred to as "colored yarns").

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, the amount of color threads required to form a sewing pattern in a woven fabric with a sewing pattern using a multi-cutter force loom has been determined by a skilled person for many years based on the color arrangement of the design drawn on the design drawing. Relyingly, it was estimated by the amount of division, and a considerably larger amount of colored yarn than the estimated amount was given to the weaver. However, the estimated amount based on the ruled amount is not so reliable in reality, and an excess or deficiency often occurs. In particular, when a shortage occurs, a spare yarn of the same color is sufficient, but when there is no spare yarn, it is necessary to dye the yarn again. However, there is a problem that they are not dyed in exactly the same color, so it was always necessary to prepare a large amount of colored yarn. However, the color yarns used for the sewn-patterned woven fabric with the multi-cutter force loom are expensive, and the amount to be prepared in excess of the actual required amount is considerably large in a year, which is uneconomical. .

In the art, prior to weaving, there is no other means than the one relying on the above-mentioned intuition for determining the amount of color thread used for forming a sewing pattern, and the present inventor investigates related patent publications. In the result, it was not seen at all.

Regarding the woven fabric, the number of the colored yarns woven is the same as the number of the colored yarns woven even when actually measuring the colored yarns which are used as a sewing pattern and appear as "floating" on the back surface of the woven fabric. Depending on the number of threads, for example, if you use 20 colors of thread, the length of the curved scale is 1200 (about 3 cm), and since it is entangled in a very large number, the amount used should be measured accurately. Is impossible.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides an expensive colored yarn by accurately measuring as much as possible the amount of the colored yarn used for forming the sewing pattern in the woven fabric with the sewing pattern by a multi-cutter force loom. It is a technical task to eliminate unnecessary preparations of.

[0006]

Therefore, the present inventor has wondered how the colored yarns forming the sewing pattern by the multi-cutter force loom are entangled with each other on the back surface of the fabric, and when the entanglement occurs. As a result of various examinations, under a certain pattern determined by the weaving order of the colored threads forming the sewing pattern, the position of the pattern (pattern) end formed by the colored threads, and the position of the shuttle rack of each colored thread. The present invention has been completed by finding that the colored yarns are caught and entangled with each other.

That is, according to the present invention, the amount of the color thread used for the sewing pattern in the woven fabric with the sewing pattern by the multi-cutter force loom is determined by the design data or the computer graphics pattern data used for weaving the woven fabric and the shuttle. Of the color thread necessary for the sewing pattern itself, based on the running order and movement position of the fabric, or based on a medium such as a floppy disk, an optical disk, a hard disk, an IC card into which the pattern paper data used for weaving the fabric is input. The length and the length of the idle thread required for the phenomenon of "catch" between the colored threads generated in a fixed pattern on the back surface of the woven fabric and the phenomenon of "pressing" are obtained, and the sum thereof is used for the sewing thread. Is a method for measuring the amount of color threads used in a sewing pattern using a multi-cutter force loom.

The principle of entanglement of each color yarn will be described below. FIG. 1 schematically shows the relationship between the arrangement of the thread pattern and the shelves by the color threads A, B, C, D, and E of the five color threads A, B, C, D, and E, respectively. It is a thing. In the figure, the horizontal line X in the center is the weave, the arrow Y below this weave is the weaving direction, the upper arrow Z is the weaving direction, S is the width of the fabric, L is the left shelves, and R is the right It is a shelves.

Further, in the following description, the colored yarn A,
B, C ... are simply referred to as A, B, C ..., the shuttle of A thread is simply referred to as "A shuttle", and a part of the pattern (pattern) formed by the colored threads A, that is, "A colored thread pattern" The portion of is referred to simply as "A pattern". In addition, the part of the thread pattern of each color (the part of the rectangular frame in the figure) is the part where the colored thread appears on the surface of the fabric, and the other part (the part shown by the line) floats on the back surface of the fabric. It is stretched.

Now, as shown in FIG. 1, when weaving four threads of B, C, D, E next to thread A of A pattern to form a pattern, weaving of A shuttlecock, When this A shuttle returns to the next time, a phenomenon of "hooking" or "pressing" occurs between each colored yarn located between them.

[0011] Hereinafter, the phenomenon caused by the arrangement of the color patterns forming the sewing pattern (pattern) and the position of the shuttle rack in which the shuttles for the respective color threads are housed will be explained based on the drawings.

FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of the entanglement due to the "hooking" phenomenon when the B shuttle is above the same shuttle shelf as the A shuttle. (A) The left A shuttle goes under the A handle and enters the right shelf. (B) The B shuttle on the left side passes under the B handle and enters the shuttle shelf above the A shuttle on the right side. (C) The A shuttle on the right side passes under B and runs in the direction of A pattern. (D) The A shuttle goes under the A handle and enters the shuttle shelf on the left side,
At this time, since the right end of the B handle is on the right of the right end of the A handle, A is caught by B at the right end P of the B handle as shown in the figure. Therefore, in this case, the amount of the idle thread of A due to the “hooking” is the dimension from the right end of the lower A pattern to the right end of the upper A pattern by folding back P.

FIG. 3 is an explanatory diagram of the entanglement due to the "pressing" phenomenon when the C shuttle is located below the same shuttle shelf as the A shuttle. (A) The left A shuttle goes under the A handle and enters the right shelf. (B) The left C shuttle goes under the C handle and under the right A to enter the shuttle shelf below the A shuttle. (C) The A shuttle on the right side runs in the direction of the A pattern. (D) The A shuttle goes under the A handle and enters the shuttle shelf on the left side,
At this time, since the right end of the C pattern is on the left of the right end of the A pattern, C is pressed by the A at the right end of the A pattern. (E) The C shuttle on the right side passes under the C handle and enters the shuttle rack on the left side. At this time, C is caught by the portion of the presser foot Q by A as shown in the figure. Therefore, in this case, the amount of idle thread of C due to the "presser" is from the right end of the lower C pattern to the right end of the upper C pattern after Q is folded back.

FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram of the entanglement due to the "pressing" phenomenon when the D shuttle is on the opposite side of the A shuttle and above the shelf in which the A shuttle fits. (A) The left A shuttle goes under the A handle and enters the right shelf. (B) The right D shuttle goes under the D handle and enters the left shelves. (C) The A shuttle on the right side runs in the direction of the A pattern. (D) The A shuttle passes under the A handle and enters the left shelf, but at this time the D handle's left end is on the right side of the A handle's right end.
Press D with A at the right end of the handle. (E) The D shuttle on the left side passes under the D handle and enters the shuttle rack on the right side. At this time, D is caught by the portion of the press Q by A as shown in the figure. Therefore, in this case, the amount of the idle thread of D by the "presser" is the dimension from the left end of the lower D pattern to the left end of the upper D pattern by folding back Q.

FIG. 5 is an explanatory view of the entanglement due to the "pressing" phenomenon in the case where the E shuttle is on the opposite side of the A shuttle and below the shelf in which the A shuttle fits. (A) The left A shuttle goes under the A handle and enters the right shelf. (B) The E shuttle on the right side passes under A, then under the E handle to enter the shelves on the left side. (C) The A shuttle on the right side runs in the direction of the A pattern. (D) The A shuttle passes under the A handle and enters the shuttle rack on the left side. At this time, since the left end of the E handle is on the right side of the right end of the A handle, E is pressed by A at the right end of the A handle. (E) The left E shuttle passes under the E handle and enters the right shelves. At this time, E is caught by the presser foot Q by A as shown in the figure. Therefore, in this case, "the amount of E play yarn due to the presser foot is changed from the left end of the lower E handle to the upper E
The dimensions are up to the left edge of the handle.

The above description with reference to FIGS. 2 to 5 shows that the pattern of each other color is in the left or right direction of the A pattern with respect to the movement of the A shuttle, and the other colored threads are attached to the A shuttle. Depending on whether the shuttle is on the left or right, and whether the other shuttle is above or below the shuttle when A shuttle returns, various patterns of "hooking" and "presser" with A at the right end of the A handle can be set. Although the description has been made in the one-to-one relationship with B, C, D, and E for each A, the phenomena of FIGS. 2 to 5 described above actually occur in combination. However, with regard to the above-mentioned "jamming", a phenomenon occurring between the color yarn closest to the shuttle rack on the right side occurs preferentially, and with respect to the "presser", in each case, each of the above-mentioned Phenomena occur individually. In addition, the above-mentioned "entanglement" or "presser" entanglement of the thread causes
In addition to the four patterns described above, this also occurs when the design and the positions of the shuttles are in a bilaterally symmetric relationship, so there are eight patterns in total, and these eight patterns are " It is all the phenomenon of the entanglement of the thread due to "trap" or "presser".

Each of the above patterns can be discriminated based on design data of design drawings or computer graphics, and the running order and moving position of the shuttle. A floppy disk (CGS floppy) or an optical disk into which these pattern paper data are input, It can also be determined based on a medium such as a hard disk or an IC card.

In the design drawing, the outline of the design is transferred with a pencil approximately one by one, based on the design, and each part of the design is lightly colored according to the color scheme of the design, and the fitting is carried out. In the margin of the design paper, what is commonly called "meter", the type of colored yarn and the range of use in the woven fabric are represented by colored bars. If the running order and the moving position of the shuttle of each color yarn are indicated on this meter, the design drawing will cause the color yarns to entangle with each other due to any of the above-mentioned patterns "hooking" or "pressing". Can be determined.

Therefore, the length of the thread color required for the sewing pattern itself can be measured directly from the pattern portion of the design drawing, but the length of the idle thread due to the above-mentioned "jamming" or "presser" can be directly measured. Is impossible. However, the patterns produced by the idle thread are limited to the above eight patterns, and this pattern is determined by the meters and the running order and the moving position of the shuttle, which are shown in the margin of the design drawing. The length of the idle thread according to the pattern is determined based on the above principle and the length of the idle thread is measured directly from the pattern portion of the design drawing, and the length of the color thread is added up for each stitch necessary to form the sewing pattern itself. Then, it is possible to calculate the actually required amount of colored yarn for Ichikoshi.

In this way, the total amount can be calculated by measuring the amount of color yarns required for forming the sewing pattern one by one and summing up the ones calculated for each color yarn. Since a huge amount of work is required to calculate the total amount, a TV camera or scanner and a computer may be used in combination. Further, in calculating the amount of the colored yarn, it is also possible to calculate using the design data of computer graphics instead of the design drawing described above. Further, it is possible to calculate by combining a computer such as a floppy disk for direct jacquard into which the pattern data is input and a computer.

[0021]

According to the method of the present invention, a design drawing used for weaving a target sewn pattern-containing fabric, design data of computer graphics, or a medium such as a CGS floppy into which the pattern paper data is input. Then, the total amount of each color thread required for the sewing pattern can be measured by calculating the sum of the amount of each color thread required for the sewing pattern itself and the play amount of the thread caused by the phenomenon of "hooking" or "pressing". . And this work can be performed by combining a TV camera or a scanner with a computer.

According to the method of the present invention, the amount of each color yarn used in the sewing pattern by the multi-cutter force loom can be determined in advance, so that a skilled person has a hard time studying the design drawing to determine the amount of each color yarn to be used according to the amount of division. Estimating work can be omitted. It is necessary to estimate the amount of each color yarn used by the amount of division each time the pattern of the woven fabric is changed, which has been a great labor until now, but the method of the present invention can save this labor drastically. It has high utility value.

Further, if the generation mode and the amount of the idle yarns are known by the method of the present invention, the arrangement of the shuttles and the order in which the shuttles run can be determined by utilizing them in reverse. It will be possible.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory view schematically showing the arrangement of a color pattern of a sewing pattern which is a target of implementation of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an explanatory view schematically showing a “hooking” phenomenon in a sewing pattern.

[Figure 3]

FIG. 5 is an explanatory view schematically showing a “pressing” phenomenon in a sewing pattern.

[Explanation of symbols]

A, B, C, D, E color yarn, X texture
S Woven fabric width L Left-side shuttle rack R Right-side shuttle rack P Hook Q Presser

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. The amount of color threads used for a sewing pattern in a woven fabric with a sewing pattern by a multi-cutter force loom, the design data used in the weaving of the woven fabric, the pattern data of computer graphics, and the running order of the shuttle and Based on the moving position, the length of the color thread required for the sewing pattern itself,
The amount of the colored yarn used for the sewing pattern is calculated by finding the length of the idle yarn required for the phenomenon of pressing and the catch between the colored yarns occurring in a fixed pattern on the back surface of the woven fabric. A characteristic method for measuring the amount of color threads used in sewing patterns using a multi-cutter force loom. 2. A floppy disk, an optical disk, a hard disk, an IC card, etc., in which the amount of color threads used for the sewing pattern in a woven fabric with a sewing pattern by a multi-cutter force loom is inputted as pattern paper data used for weaving the woven fabric. Based on the medium of, the length of the colored thread required for the sewing pattern itself, the catch between the colored threads generated in a fixed pattern on the back surface of the fabric, and the length of the idle thread necessary for the phenomenon of pressing are determined. A method for measuring the amount of color thread used in a sewing pattern by a multi-cutter force loom, wherein the total amount is used to determine the amount of color thread used in the sewing pattern.