JP2897445B2 - Spun fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a spun filament fabric and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Spun-like woven fabrics of synthetic fiber filament yarns are inexpensive in terms of fineness compared to spun yarns, and products with firmness and firmness can be obtained. Many attempts have been made to make the raw yarn. At present, the technique mainly used is to crimp the yarn by using the thermoplasticity of the synthetic fiber to make a bulky processed yarn into a woven fabric.

[0003] There are two methods of crimping and making
There are a false twisting method, an indentation method, a rubbing method and the like, and the yarns that can be formed are different, but most are currently used.

The principle of the false twisting method is to give 3000 to 4000 twists per meter to a synthetic filament yarn, heat-set as it is, and then return the twist to produce a crimped tall yarn. It is said that untwisting gives the fiber bundle a unique bend and gives the fabric a soft, spun-like feel. In fact, filaments such as flat plates, georgettes, and vales creep have been made by weaving the yarns thus formed.

[0005]

A spun-like woven fabric is one that is directed to external factors such as fluff and yarn unevenness,
It is divided into two types, one that is oriented toward touch and hand, such as softness, waist, and feeling of shaking. However, it is difficult for the conventional woven fabric to have both of these properties. In other words, if the emphasis is placed on the appearance and the unevenness of the yarn and the NEP are formed violently,
The design of the yarn in the weaving process becomes difficult, and the texture becomes poor. On the other hand, in the case of finishing the fabric using the unique touch and texture of the filament, the silk fabric feels silky in appearance.

Further, in the prior art, weaving is performed using yarn spun like at the yarn stage, which causes operational troubles in the weaving process, degrades the quality of the product, and complicates the process. The problem in is still present.

[0007] An object of the present invention is to provide a spun-tone fabric having a softer feel and a different appearance than conventional spun-tone filament fabrics made from conventional textured yarns, and to provide a manufacturing method with a simplified process. To provide.

[0008]

The constitution of the present invention for achieving the above-mentioned object of the present invention is as follows.

That is, in the filament fabric, the porosity of the fiber bundle of the yarn in one direction is 20 to 50%, and the yarn in the other direction has an S twist of 10 to 500 T / 10 cm or Z twist.
A spun-tone woven fabric characterized in that at least two types of twists are present within 10 cm, and a high-speed fluid of 0.5 while swinging the woven fabric in a direction perpendicular to the moving direction at a swing frequency of 1 Hz or more. Spraying onto the surface of non-twisted or sweet-twisted filament fabric of denier or more, the porosity of the fiber bundle in one direction is 20 to 50%, and that in the other direction is 10 to 50%.
This is a method for producing a spun-tone woven fabric, wherein at least two types of S twist or Z twist of 0T / 10 cm are formed within 10 cm.

[0010] The woven fabric according to the present invention having the above-described structure becomes a new woven fabric very similar to a spun yarn woven fabric. This is due to the separate effects of warp and weft. When a fiber bundle having voids in one direction (vertical or horizontal) yarn is used, the opened fiber has a strong influence on the feeling, so that the texture of the woven fabric is soft and the texture is fine. on the other hand,
If a yarn having a random twist in a direction different from that of the yarn is used, a woven fabric having a different appearance with an attractive grain can be produced with the above-mentioned soft feeling of the yarn. Further, by making the woven fabric having these two performances into a yarn under the above conditions (porosity, number of twists), it is possible to make the yarn more spun like.

FIG. 1 shows a model diagram in which a warp yarn according to the present invention is made into a woven fabric by using fibers having voids and a weft yarn being randomly twisted, and the surface is enlarged. FIG. 2 shows an enlarged view of a conventional georgette-like fabric. In the figure, 1 is a warp yarn and 2 is a weft yarn.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

In the present invention, it is necessary that voids exist in the unidirectional yarn. As mentioned above, this void not only gives a soft feeling when holding the fabric,
It also helps give a fine-grained feel when touching the surface. The void refers to a space existing in one fiber bundle, and does not refer to a gap between the fiber bundle and the adjacent fiber bundle. In the present invention, the porosity is used, and the properties of the porosity are quantified.

The porosity means the ratio of the cross-sectional area of the fiber to the cross-sectional area of the void (total cross-sectional area) and the cross-sectional area of the void in the fiber bundle cross section. FIG. 3 is a diagram for explaining how to determine the total cross-sectional area and the cross-sectional area of the gap. The total cross-sectional area is tangent to each other on the circumference of the outermost filament filament
The area within the shortest closed curve formed by these tangents and the circumference of the outermost filament fiber, and the cross-sectional area of the void represents the area of the fiber-free portion within such a closed curve.
In addition, at the time of calculation, 50 points on the fabric are arbitrarily selected.
The average of 0 points is defined as the porosity of this fabric.

The actual measurement of the porosity is performed by immersing the woven fabric in an aqueous solution of PVA, drying and fixing the woven fabric, cutting the woven fabric in a vertical direction or a horizontal direction, and taking a photograph of a cross section of the cut surface. That is, the area ratio of the fiber bundle is obtained from the photograph, and the porosity is calculated from this.

The porosity needs to be 20 to 50%. When it is less than 20%, it is not much different from the case where a normal non-twisted yarn is used, and it becomes a slippery woven fabric without softness or span-like roughness. 50% conversely
When the value exceeds, there is softness, but there is roughness so as to catch on the hand, and the appearance also seems to be misaligned, which is not preferable.

It is necessary that the yarn in the direction different from that of the yarn having the voids is randomly twisted. As described above, such irregular twists can add a slight sharpness to the fine-grained softness.

Hereinafter, the twist of the present invention will be described in detail.

The term "twisting" as used in the present invention means that fibers rotating spirally in the fiber bundle direction are present in one fiber bundle. This has a slightly different meaning from conventional twisted fiber bundles. That is, the case where each fiber of the fiber bundle is rotated and disturbed in the same direction is also referred to as twisting.

The fact that there are two or more types of twists within 10 cm is measured as follows. First 10c
The m thread is divided into 10 equal parts every 1 cm. One unit is defined as one unit, and the number of twists included in one unit is represented by adding a minus sign for S twist and a plus sign for Z twist. When there is one having a twist number of 50T / 10cm or more,
It is defined that there are two or more types of twists.

In the present invention, 10 to 5 yarns within 10 cm of the yarn length are used.
There are two or more types of 00T / 10cm S-twisted or Z-twisted portions. It is not necessary that both types (S, Z) exist for the S twist and the Z twist, and two or more types may be present only for the S twist or the Z twist. Furthermore, when judging the existence of this twist, the twisted portion of less than 10 T / 10 cm is not considered to have a twist. In the actual measurement of twist, an enlarged surface photograph is taken and the number of twists is calculated therefrom. However, since it is impossible to chase a single fiber with such a method, it is estimated whether there are two or more types by calculating only the portion visible on the surface. That is, the woven fiber bundle 10
cm is selected in a woven state, divided into ten equal parts, and it is determined whether or not two or more types of twists are present in these ten parts.

The number of twists of the fiber is determined from the number of twists of the fiber portion on the surface, at or near the center of the equally divided portion. For example, A in FIG. 1 has a length of 0.1 m.
The number of twists is 500T / 10cm because of 0.5 turns in m
And the average number of twists of the fiber bundle portion including A and exposed on the surface is 500 T / 10 cm. In a fiber bundle such as B which is not evenly twisted, the fiber C is the center of this part or the fiber closest to the center.
Since there are 0.125 turns at 2 mm, the number of twists of this fiber bundle is -63 T / 10 cm.

In such a measuring method, when twists are not randomly included in all of the woven fabrics, it is conceivable to measure a portion that does not exist by chance. Therefore, fifty fibers are examined and classified into two types of two or more types of "existing" and two or more types of "non-existing", and when more than half enter "existing", "two or more types of twist exist" Is defined. By the way, in the embodiment, 40 out of 50 pieces are used.
Twist was present to the extent of this.

The change in twist, that is, the more kinds of twist, the better. The more irregular the twist, the more
A different appearance is created, giving a more span-like texture. In particular, when two or more types of twists are present within 2 cm, a spun-like fabric having not only an appearance but also a rough texture is obtained. In the prior art, there is only one kind of twist, and a uniform twist is used as a whole. However, such a woven fabric is a rugged woven fabric having a different appearance than the product of the present invention.
It is a characteristic of the woven fabric of the present invention that a slight twist is produced by irregular twisting.

The woven fabric referred to in the present invention is a woven fabric made of a single or a mixture of synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide and polyacryl, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, and regenerated fibers such as rayon. However, synthetic fibers are of course suitable for producing spun-like fabrics. The weave of the filament woven fabric used in the present invention is generally plain weave, but for example, twill taffeta or satin woven fabric using a twill structure can be sufficiently used.

The thickness of the fiber is preferably 0.5 denier or more. The so-called ultrafine fibers having a density of less than 0.5 denier are liable to be entangled with each other, so that twisting and opening are difficult to produce.

Now, it is very difficult to produce these spread yarns and entangled yarns by so-called yarn processing, as is done with processed yarns. The reason is that the fiber bundle of the opened fiber is easily closed during the weaving process, and the yarn can usually be twisted only uniformly. Therefore, the present inventors have invented a method for easily producing them.

Next, the manufacturing method of the present invention will be described.

In the present invention, the yarn is opened and the yarn is twisted by injecting a high-speed fluid onto the surface of the fabric while oscillating the injection nozzle. The high-speed fluid is a liquid of 5 to 300 Kgf /
Pressurized to m ² and sprayed from a nozzle with a small hole diameter or a slit with a small gap.

The method of using this high-speed fluid is clearly different from the conventional use for the purpose of entanglement of felt or crimping of woven or knitted fabric. That is, the present invention utilizes the fact that a high-speed fluid is jetted from a fine-hole nozzle, and the non-twisted and sweet-twisted fiber bundles take various states such as entanglement, spreading and twisting depending on the swinging direction of the jet flow. These forms are warp yarns,
The production of the woven fabric is made possible by properly using the weft yarn.

In the present invention, since the water jet punch is used as the high-speed fluid injection device, the following specifically means. Generally high pressure (50 kgf / m ²
In the water jet punch described above, since the water stream moves in a complicated manner, the fibers are entangled and twisted when injected into the woven fabric. However, conversely, low pressure (25 kgf / m
^{About 2} ) or / and short time (0.1 per fiber bundle).
When a water jet punch (approximately 1 second) is applied, the fibers are opened. Therefore, when the jet flow is swung quickly with a stroke several tens of times the width of the fiber bundle and the fabric is moved,
The yarn in the direction of travel opens because the time the water stream hits is short,
On the other hand, the yarn in the direction perpendicular to the traveling direction is entangled because of this long time, and becomes a so-called twisted yarn.

The size of the stroke is 5 to 1 times the width of the fiber bundle.
Preferably, the moving speed of the fabric is 1 to 20 m / min. Outside of this range, there are adverse effects such as the fiber bundle not being spread and being less likely to be in a twisted state.

When a water jet is used, important parameters in the present invention are the pressure, the shape of the jet flow, and the number of swings when swinging. The treatment is performed at a pressure of 5 kgf / m ² or more, preferably 10 kgf / m ^{2 to} 100 kgf / m ² . At a pressure of 5 kgf / m ² or less, the water flow pressure is weak and the effect is insufficient. In addition, treatment at an excessively high pressure may cause cutting of constituent yarns and the like, which is not preferable.
As the shape of the jet flow, a straight columnar flow like a column is generally preferred. However, when the non-columnar flow treatment is performed, the spreading effect can be more enhanced, and therefore, it can be used properly depending on the application. The number of swings at the time of swing is preferably 1 Hz or more. If the frequency is less than 1 Hz, the water flow hits the yarn in the direction perpendicular to the swinging direction for a long time, and the yarn is twisted or entangled.

The manufacturing process for producing the spun-tone woven fabric of the present invention has a very wide range of applications and also has a strong impact on the industry. This is because the present manufacturing method can substantially solve problems during operation due to current thread processing, problems related to the quality of products, and the like.
In addition, by integrating the water jet loom with the high-pressure fluid fabric processing apparatus, it is possible to produce a spun-tone fabric in which the drying step can be performed at one time, and a reduction in production cost can be expected.

[0035]

EXAMPLES Next, examples of the present invention will be described, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

The warp yarn has 54 denier 17 filaments,
Using a polyester woven fabric of 110 × 90 yarns / inch using 75 denier 36 filaments for the weft yarn,
A nozzle having a diameter of 0.1 mm and a pitch of 1 mm is oscillated at 5 Hz and an oscillating stroke of 5 mm.
Kgf / m ² was sprayed onto the woven fabric on a net conveyor from a blast distance of 40 mm, and continuous treatment was performed at a woven fabric moving speed of 5 m / min.

When the surface of the woven fabric thus obtained is observed with a magnifying glass, the fiber bundle in the vertical direction of the woven fabric swells about twice as large as the normal fiber width, and the yarn in the weft direction is -200 to +
A 200 turn / 10 cm twist was seen to be present randomly. Further, when the cross direction was cut and an enlarged photograph of the cross section was taken, the porosity of the warp yarn was 35%. The texture was a span-tone fabric with soft touch, crispness and different appearance.

[0038]

According to the present invention, it is possible to produce a fabric which has never been seen before and which is very similar to the feeling of cotton. In addition, by making it possible to process a spun-tone woven fabric, which has been almost impossible except by yarn processing, in a filament woven state, it has become possible to significantly reduce costs.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a model diagram in which a warp yarn according to the present invention is made into a woven fabric by using a fiber having a void and a weft yarn being randomly twisted, and the surface is enlarged.

FIG. 2 is a model diagram showing an enlarged view of a conventional georgette-like fabric.

FIG. 3 is a diagram for explaining a method of obtaining a total cross-sectional area and a cross-sectional area of an air gap.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: warp yarn 2: weft yarn

Continuation of the front page (58) Field surveyed (Int. Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D06C 29/00 D02G 3/26 D03D 15/00 D03D 25/00

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] In the filament woven fabric, the porosity of the fiber bundle in one direction is 20 to 50%, and the S or Z twist of 10 to 500 T / 10 cm is 10% in the other direction.
A spun-tone woven fabric characterized in that at least two types exist within a cm. 2. A high-speed fluid is supplied to the spray nozzle at a frequency of 1 Hz or more while oscillating in a direction perpendicular to the fabric moving direction.
By spraying onto the surface of a non-twisted or sweet-twisted filament fabric of denier or more, the porosity of the unidirectional yarn fiber bundle is set to 20 to 5
A method for producing a spun-tone woven fabric, wherein at least two kinds of S-twist or Z-twist of 10 to 500 T / 10 cm are formed in a yarn of 0% in another direction within 10 cm.