JP7600181B2 - Collared shirt - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a collared shirt.

Patent document 1 discloses a collared shirt with a collar and a placket.

Published in Japanese

Generally, the aesthetic appearance of a collared shirt is easily judged by the collar and the area around the placket, so it is desirable to improve the appearance of the collar and/or the area around the placket.

The objective of the present invention is to provide a collared shirt with improved appearance around the collar and/or placket.

One aspect of the present invention comprises a collar sewn to the body, the collar having a band-shaped collar body constituting a first side located on the front side in a normal state with the collar tip facing downward, and three folded pieces that are continuous with the collar body and are folded back on the collar body to constitute a second side located on the back side in the normal state, the collar body having a first long side portion sewn to the body, a second long side portion opposing the first long side portion, and a pair of short side portions connecting the first long side portion and the second long side portion, the three folded pieces being provided at the second long side portion and the pair of short side portions , the three folded pieces having the The collared shirt includes a main fold piece continuous with a second long side portion and a pair of sub-fold pieces continuous with the pair of short sides, respectively, and the main fold piece has a first main long side portion consisting of the second long side portion around which the main fold piece is folded, a second main long side portion parallel to the first main long side portion, and a pair of main short sides connecting the first main long side portion and the second main long side portion, and each of the pair of sub-fold pieces has a first sub-side portion consisting of the pair of short sides around which the sub-fold piece is folded, a second sub-side portion inclined complementarily to the main short side portion when folded, and a third sub-side portion extending along the first long side portion .

Generally, collars are known that are formed by preparing two pieces of collar fabric and joining the two pieces of collar fabric with an adhesive. When the two pieces of collar fabric are joined together, the cross section of the two pieces of fabric that were joined together when cut may be exposed at the periphery of the collar. When a collar is formed in this way, there is a risk that the edges of the joined collar fabrics may peel off, or the cross section of the edges may yellow due to deterioration of the adhesive, etc.

According to the present invention, in a collar formed by overlapping at least two pieces of collar fabric, when the three fold pieces are folded and overlapped on the collar body, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed into a bag shape by the fold pieces and the collar body along the fold line consisting of the second long side and a pair of short sides, excluding the first long side that is sewn to the body. Therefore, the cross section of the cut end of the parts does not appear on the peripheral edge of the collar, and fraying on the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed. For example, even if the collar is joined with an adhesive, peeling and yellowing of the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed. As a result, the appearance of the area around the collar of a collared shirt can be improved.

With this configuration, the pair of main short sides of the main folded piece and the second minor sides of each minor folded piece are formed complementarily, so that when folded, the pair of main short sides overlap with each of the second minor sides, preventing thickness differences (unevenness) in the collar, and allowing for the formation of an aesthetically pleasing collar.

In addition, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed into a bag shape by the fold lines consisting of the second long side and a pair of short sides, so fraying, peeling and yellowing at the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed. In particular, even when the top of the collar tip after the collar is sewn to the body is formed by the intersection of the second long side and each short side, fraying, peeling and yellowing at the top of the collar tip can be suppressed.

The collar may be formed by gluing the collar body and the three folded pieces together.

According to this configuration, when the three folded pieces are folded and overlapped on the collar body, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed by the folded pieces and the collar body, except for the first long side portion that is sewn to the body, and is bag-shaped along the fold line. Therefore, the cross section of the cut-off end of the part does not appear on the peripheral edge of the collar. Therefore, peeling and yellowing of the peripheral edge of the collar can be suppressed, as in the case where the collar body and the overlapping piece cut off from the collar body are glued. Also, compared to when the collar body and the three folded pieces are sewn to each other, it is possible to prevent the collar tip from bulging due to the collar body and the folded pieces separating from each other, and to form a collar with excellent aesthetics.

The collar may be such that the collar body and the three folded pieces are not adhered to each other and are separable from each other, and the three folded pieces are sewn to the collar body .

With this configuration, when the three fold pieces are folded and overlapped on the collar body, the peripheral edge of the collar is formed by the fold pieces and the collar body, except for the long side that is sewn to the body, and is bag-shaped along the fold lines. Therefore, the cross section of the cut end of the parts does not appear on the peripheral edge of the collar. This makes it possible to suppress fraying on the peripheral edge of the collar.

The collar may include a butt joint portion where the pair of main short sides of the main fold piece and the second minor sides of the pair of minor fold pieces are butted together and bonded, and a reinforcing tape that is provided to extend along the butt joint portion.

According to this configuration, the butt joint where the pair of main short sides and the pair of second minor sides are butted together extends from the top of the collar tip after the collar is sewn to the body toward the first long side that is sewn to the body of the collar body. As a result, the reinforcing tape provided along this butt joint functions as a so-called collar keeper to prevent the tip of the collar from warping or losing its shape, so that the collar can be prevented from losing its shape without the need for a separate member for the collar keeper.

A core material may be provided between the collar body and the three folded pieces.

With this configuration, the core material helps prevent the collar from losing its shape, allowing the collar to be kept in shape.

Another aspect of the present invention is a front body having a right part of the front body located on the right side of the body width and a left part of the front body located on the left side of the body width, each of the right part of the front body and the left part of the front body having a folded part that is folded back to the back side of the front body at the center side in the body width direction, and further comprising a placket member adjacent to the inner edge of the folded part in the body width direction and extending along the body length direction of the front body, the placket member having a front placket part located on the front side of the front body and a back placket part that is continuous with the inner end part in the body width direction of the front placket part and is located on the back side of the front placket part and extends toward the outside in the width direction, and at least one of the front placket end part on the outside of the front placket part in the body width direction and the back placket end part on the outside of the back placket part in the body width direction may be positioned with a shift in the body width direction relative to the folded end part on the outside of the body width direction.

In general, the placket member of a polo shirt is configured so that the positions in the body width direction of the folded end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the folded part formed by folding back the front body, the front placket end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the front placket part of the placket member that is sewn to the front body, and the back placket end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the back placket part that continues from the inner end in the body width direction of the front placket part and is located on the back side of the front placket part, are aligned.

In this case, the concentration of the ends of multiple pieces of fabric around the placket of the front body may cause the concentration of the ends of the placket to appear as unintended unevenness on the front side, marring the aesthetic look, or the ends of the shirt may come into contact with the wearer, causing discomfort. More specifically, the thickness of the fabric differs between the placket, which is made up of multiple pieces of fabric (e.g., four pieces: the front body, the fold, the front placket, and the back placket), and the front body (one piece), causing a step at the end of the placket (the ends in the body width direction of the fold, the front placket, and the back placket). This step may appear on the front side of the shirt, marring the aesthetic look, or the step may come into contact with the wearer, causing chafing.

In contrast, according to the present invention, by shifting the position of the end of the fabric around the placket, the step around the placket relative to the front body is reduced compared to when the folded end, the front placket end, and the back placket end are aligned in the body width direction. This reduces the occurrence of unintended unevenness on the front side and discomfort to the wearer caused by the concentration of multiple fabric ends around the placket of the front body. More specifically, the thickness of the fabric differs between the placket, which is composed of multiple overlapping fabrics, and the front body, and the step at the end of the placket is prevented from appearing on the front side, damaging the aesthetic look, or from coming into contact with the wearer and causing chafing. As a result, the step is prevented from appearing as an unintended unevenness on the front side, damaging the aesthetic look, and the appearance around the collar of a collared shirt is improved. Furthermore, discomfort caused by the step coming into contact with the wearer can be reduced.

The width from the inner edge to the end of the lining may be set to be greater than the width of the folded portion.

The inside placket end is located on the outside of the folded end in the width direction, so that on the inside of the polo shirt (the side facing the wearer), the folded end is covered by the inside placket, creating a beautiful appearance from the inside.

The width from the inner edge to the end of the front flap may be set smaller than the width of the folded portion.

The front placket end is located more inward in the width direction than the folded end, so the folded end and front placket end are located more inward in the width direction than the back placket end. This allows the back placket to cover the folded end and front placket end, making it look more aesthetically pleasing from the inside. Also, compared to when the width from the inner edge to the front placket end is set larger than the width of the folded end, the area of overlapping fabric in the placket, which creates a large step, can be reduced.

A strip-shaped interlining extending in the length direction along the placket is sandwiched between the front placket and the back placket, and the end of the interlining on the outer side in the width direction may be positioned in a displaced position in the width direction from the folded end, the front placket end, and the back placket end.

With this configuration, even when the interlining is sandwiched in the placket, the difference in height around the placket relative to the front body is reduced by shifting the positions of the end of the interlining, the folded end, the end of the front placket, and the end of the back placket in the body width direction.

The width from the inner edge to the end of the interlining may be set to be equal to or less than the width from the inner edge to the end of the front placket.

Compared to when the width from the inner edge to the end of the interlining is set larger than the width from the inner edge to the end of the front placket, the area of the overlapping fabric that creates a large step in the placket can be reduced.

The width of the back placket may increase from bottom to top.

The width of the lining placket increases from the chest area, located at the bottom in the body length direction, toward the collar area, located at the top. This makes it easier to position the outer end of the lining placket outside the wearer's collarbone, which is located in the center of the body width direction, compared to when the outer end of the lining placket extends in the body length direction with the width of a straight section. This makes it easier to prevent discomfort caused by the outer end abutting the collarbone.

The end of the back placket may have a straight portion located at the bottom and a curved portion that is continuous with the straight portion and curves upward and outward in the width direction.

The width of the back placket end is smoothly expanded by the curved portion, which reduces the discomfort caused by the portion that changes from a straight portion to a curved portion coming into contact with the wearer. Specifically, compared to when the curved portion is continuous with the straight portion and is composed of a straight line that slopes upward and outward in the width direction, corners are less likely to form between the straight portion and the curved portion, which reduces the discomfort caused by the corners coming into contact with the wearer.

The collared shirt of the present invention can improve the appearance of the collar and/or placket area.

1 is a front view of a polo shirt (collared shirt) according to the present invention. FIG. 2 is a rear view of the polo shirt according to the present invention. FIG. 2 is a partially enlarged view of the collar area of the polo shirt according to the present invention in a normal state with the collar folded back. FIG. 2 is a schematic development of the collar before it is sewn to the body. FIG. 4 is a schematic development of the collar before the fold-over pieces are folded back. 6 is a cross-sectional view taken along line VI-VI in FIG. 4 . An enlarged view of the center of the front body width direction before the placket and collar are sewn on. 8 is an enlarged view of the folded-back portion of the front body in FIG. 7 after being folded back. FIG. 2 is a partially enlarged view of the placket portion and its surroundings when the collar of the polo shirt according to the present invention is upright. FIG. 10 is a cross-sectional perspective view taken along line XX in FIG. 11 is a cross-sectional view corresponding to FIG. 10 of a collar with a core material. 13A and 13B are a development view and a front view showing a modified collar. 13A and 13B are a development view and a front view showing another modified example of the collar.

The following describes an embodiment of the present invention with reference to the drawings.

Figure 1 is a front view of a polo shirt as a collared shirt according to one embodiment of the present invention. Below, the top and bottom, left and right, and front and back of the polo shirt 1 are defined based on the state in which the wearer wearing the polo shirt 1 is standing upright. In addition, the direction from the outer surface toward the inside in the thickness direction of the fabric is defined as the inside, and vice versa, the direction toward the outside in the width direction of the body is defined as the outside, and the direction toward the center in the width direction is defined as the inside. Referring to Figure 1, the polo shirt 1 has a body 2 made of, for example, woven or knit fabric, with a front body 21 and a back body 25, a pair of left and right sleeves 4, a collar 5, and a placket member 6.

1 and 2, the body 2 has a front body 21 and a back body 25. The front body 21 and the back body 25 are sewn together at both ends 21a, 25a in the width direction, except for the part where the left and right sleeves are sewn together. The front body 21 and the back body 25 are sewn together at the upper edges 21b, 25b in the length direction, except for the part where the collar 5 is connected. The left and right sleeves 4 are sewn together at the side edges 21c, 25c between the both ends 21a, 25a and the upper edges 21b, 25b. Note that each part such as the front body 21, the back body 25, the sleeves 4, the collar 5, etc. may be joined by bonding, ultrasonic bonding, etc. instead of sewing. Also, when joining parts such as each body to another or a body to a sleeve, either sewing or bonding is possible.

The collar 5 will be described with reference to Figures 3 to 5 and 9. Figure 3 shows the collar 5 in its normal state with the tip facing down, and Figure 9 shows it in its upright state. Figure 4 shows the collar 5 before it is sewn to the body 2. Figure 5 shows the collar 5 after it has been cut from the fabric and before the fold-back pieces 52, 53, and 54 described below are folded back. In the following, the surface of the collar 5 that is normally on the outside will be referred to as the first surface, and the surface that is normally on the inside will be referred to as the second surface.

Referring to FIG. 3, the collar 5 is attached across the upper ends of the front body 21 and the back body 25, and is positioned so as to surround the wearer's neck when worn. The collar 5 is folded back around the outside of the neck in the circumferential direction of the neck.

Referring to FIG. 4, in this embodiment, the collar 5 is made of cotton, linen, polyester, or the like, and has a rectangular and band-like shape. The collar 5 has a pair of opposing long sides 5a, 5b and a pair of opposing short sides 5c, 5d. In this embodiment, the length of each of the long sides 5a, 5b is, for example, approximately equal to the circumference L3 of the neck edge. The length of each of the short sides 5c, 5d is set to a predetermined height H1 according to the design of the collar height.

In this embodiment, the angle a1 of the corner 5e formed by the long sides 5a, 5b and the short sides 5c, 5d is approximately 90 degrees. The angle a1 of the corner 5e is not limited to 90 degrees, and may be an acute angle or an obtuse angle depending on the design of the collar.

Referring to FIG. 5, the collar 5 has a strip-shaped collar body 51 and three fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 that are continuous with the collar body 51. The collar 5 is sewn to the body 2 with the three fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 folded over to overlap the collar body 51. The collar 5 is sewn to the body 2 so that, in the normal state, the collar body 51 constitutes a first surface located on the outside, and the fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 constitute a second surface located on the inside. In other words, the entire collar body 51 constitutes the first surface of the collar 5, and the entire fold-back pieces 52, 53, 54 constitute the second surface of the collar 5.

The collar body 51 has a first long side 51a sewn to the body 2, a second long side 51b facing the first long side 51a, and a pair of short sides 51c, 51d connecting the first long side 51a and the second long side 51b. The lengths of the first long side 51a and the second long side 51b match the long sides 5a, 5b of the collar 5. The height H1 of the pair of short sides 51c, 51d is set to be higher than the height of the collar 5 by the seam allowance. The first long side 51a, the second long side 51b, and the pair of short sides 51c, 51d of the collar body 51 form the outer shape of the collar in the finished state, i.e., the pair of long sides 5a, 5b and the pair of short sides 5c, 5d.

The three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are provided continuous with the second long side portion 51b and a pair of short side portions 51c, 51d. More specifically, the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 have a main folded piece 52 continuous with the second long side portion 51b, and a pair of secondary folded pieces 53, 54 each continuous with the pair of short side portions 51c, 51d.

As shown by the dashed double-dashed arrows in FIG. 5, the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded back at the second long side portion 51b and the pair of short side portions 51c, 51d, respectively, and the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are superimposed on the collar body 51.

The main fold piece 52 is trapezoidal in shape and has a first main long side 52a consisting of a second long side 51b around which the main fold piece 52 is folded, a second main long side 52b facing the first main long side 52a, and first and second main short side portions 52c and 52d connecting the first main long side 52a and the second main long side 52b. Depending on the design of the collar 5, the main fold piece 52 may be rectangular.

In this embodiment, the length of the first main long side portion 52a is equal to the length L3 of the second long side portion 51b, and the length L4 of the second main long side portion 52b is shorter than the first main long side portion 52a. The first main long side portion 52a and the second main long side portion 52b are formed so that their centers in the longitudinal direction coincide with each other, so that the first and second main short side portions 52c, 52d connecting both ends of the first main long side portion 52a and the second main long side portion 52b respectively are inclined in a direction approaching each other from the first main long side portion 52a toward the second main long side portion 52b. The collar 5 is symmetrical with respect to the center line C that passes through the center of the long side portion 5a of the collar 5 and extends in the body length direction.

The height of the main fold piece 52 is the same as the height H1 of the short sides 51c, 51d of the collar body 51. In other words, when folded, the second main long side 52b overlaps with the first long side 51a of the collar body 51 and extends circumferentially around the neck along the first long side 51a.

Each of the pair of auxiliary folded pieces 53, 54 has a first auxiliary side 53a, 54a consisting of the short side 51c, 51d around which the auxiliary folded pieces 53, 54 are folded, a second auxiliary side 53b formed complementary to the third and fourth main short side 52c, 52d in the folded state (see FIG. 3), and a third auxiliary side 53c extending along the first long side 51a. Complementary does not necessarily mean that the main short side 52c, 52d and the second auxiliary side 53b, 54b are butted together, but also includes cases where the main short side 52c, 52d and the second auxiliary side 53b, 54b overlap or are separated due to errors in cutting the collar pattern or errors when folding the folded pieces. Furthermore, if the main short sides 52c, 52d are spaced apart from the second minor sides 53b, 54b, the opposing portions may be covered with reinforcing tape 56 (see Figures 3 and 4) to prevent the folded pieces from peeling off.

As shown in an enlarged view in FIG. 4, the sum of the angle a2 between the first main long side portion 52a and the first and second main short side portions 52c, 53c, and the angle a3 between the first and second short side portions 52c, 52d and the second and third minor side portions 53b, 54b is the angle a1 of the corner portion 5e. It is preferable that the difference between the angles a2 and a3 is small, and more preferably, the angles α2 and α3 are approximately equal.

Referring to Figures 3 and 4, when the three fold pieces 52, 53, 54 are overlapped on the collar body 51, the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b of the collar 5 are formed into a bag-like shape by the fold pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51 along the fold lines, except for the first long side 51a that is sewn to the body. In other words, the cross section of the cut-off end of the collar 5 parts does not appear on the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5b of the collar 5.

As shown in FIG. 5, in this embodiment, the angle a1 of the corner 5e is 90 degrees, and before folding, the angle a4 of the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d relative to the first main long side 52a and the angle a5 of the second minor side 53b, 54b relative to the first long side 51a are the same. As a result, the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d and the second minor side 53b, 54b each form a continuous straight line, which tends to improve the placement or cutting efficiency of the collar pattern on the material (fabric before cutting), and the yield.

Referring to FIG. 4, the collar 5 has a butt section 55 where the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d of the main folded piece 52 and the second sub-sides 53b, 54b of the pair of sub-folded pieces 53, 54 are butted together and bonded. More specifically, the first and second main short sides 52c, 52d and the second sub-sides 53b, 54b are butted together and bonded at the butt section 55. The butt section 55 is bonded, for example, by supersonic (ultrasonic bonding), which bonds the fabric while cutting it. The butt section 55 may be sewn instead of glued.

3, 4, and 9, the butt portion 55 extends from the apex 5f of the collar tip after the collar 5 is sewn to the body 2 toward the first long side 51a of the collar body 51 that is sewn to the body 2. In other words, as shown in FIG. 4, before being sewn to the body, the butt portion 55 is inclined inward in the width direction of the collar 5 from the apex 5f toward the first long side 51a.

As shown in FIG. 5, an adhesive tape 57 (e.g., a styrene-based elastomer resin tape, etc.) made of, for example, a sheet-like thermoplastic resin composition is attached to the inner surface (the surface opposite to the first surface) of the collar body 51. The adhesive tape 57 has the property of being pressed in a heated and molten state and then solidified and adhered by cooling (so-called hot melt adhesiveness). The adhesive tape 57 is not limited to a thermoplastic resin composition, and may be, for example, a polyurethane-based hot melt resin, a polyamide-based hot melt resin, an EVA-based hot melt resin, a polyolefin-based hot melt resin, a styrene-based hot melt resin, etc.

The adhesive tape 57 may be in a mesh form instead of a sheet form. When the adhesive tape 57 is in a sheet form, it is attached to the entire front surface of the collar body 51, so that a collar with a firm (crisp) shape and no air permeability can be formed. On the other hand, when the adhesive tape 57 is in a lattice-like mesh form, for example, a softer collar with better air permeability can be formed compared to when a sheet-like adhesive tape 57 is attached.

The collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are adhered to each other via the adhesive tape 57 by heating and pressing the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 in a state where they are folded over the surface of the collar body 51 to which the adhesive tape 57 is attached.

The collar 5 manufactured in this way has a three-layer structure consisting of a collar body 51, a hot melt layer made of adhesive tape 57, and each of the fold-over pieces 52, 53, and 54, as shown in Figure 6.

Referring to Figures 3 and 4, the collar 5 has a reinforcing tape 56 that is provided to extend along the butt portion 55. The reinforcing tape 56 is made of, for example, thermoplastic polyurethane. For example, a 4 mm wide thermoplastic polyurethane can be used as the thermoplastic polyurethane. By providing the reinforcing tape 56 at the butt portion 55, the adhesion of the butt portion 55 is reinforced and peeling is suppressed.

As shown in FIG. 6, in this embodiment, the thickness T1 of the collar 5 where the reinforcing tape 56 is applied is 1.03 mm to 1.16 mm. The thickness T2 of the collar where the reinforcing tape 56 is not applied is 0.86 mm to 0.93 mm. The bending rigidity of the part where the reinforcing tape 56 is applied is higher than that of the part where the reinforcing tape 56 is not applied.

Figure 7 shows an enlarged view of the center of the front body 21 in the width direction before the placket member 6 and the collar 5 are sewn on. Figure 8 shows an enlarged view of the front body 21 in Figure 7 with the folded-back portions 22a, 23a folded back. Referring to Figure 7, the front body 21 has an inverted Y-shaped slit S at approximately the center in the width direction, with a length that extends from the upper edge 21b located at the upper edge in the length direction to approximately the chest area. The slit S has a linear vertical portion S1 extending in the length direction, and a pair of left and right inclined portions S2 that incline downward from the lower end of the vertical portion S1 toward the outside in the width direction. The pair of left and right inclined portions S2 are arranged so as to be linearly symmetrical with respect to the vertical portion S1.

The front body 21 has a front body right part 22 and a front body left part 23 located on the right side of the vertical part S1. The front body right part 22 and the front body left part 23 each have a pair of left and right fold parts 22a, 23a that are folded back to the back side of the body 2 at the center in the body width direction, and a lower fold part 23d that is folded down and to the back side of the body 2 at the center in the body width direction.

The pair of left and right folded parts 22a, 23a are each defined by a vertical section S1, an inclined section S2, folding lines 22b, 23b that extend from the lower end of the inclined section S2 in the body length direction parallel to the vertical section S1, and the upper edge 21b of each of the front body right section 22 and the front body left section 23. When the folded parts 22a, 23a are folded as shown in FIG. 8, the folding lines 22b, 23 become the inner edge sections 22b, 23b located on the inner edge of the folded parts 22a, 23a in the body width direction. The width W1 of the folded parts 22a, 23a in the body width direction is half the width W2 between the lower ends of the pair of left and right inclined sections S2.

The lower folded portion 23d is a triangular portion defined by a pair of left and right inclined portions S2 and a folding line 23e that extends in the body width direction between the lower ends of the inclined portions S2. When the lower folded portion 23d is folded as shown in FIG. 8, the folding line 23e becomes the upper edge 23e located at the upper edge of the lower folded portion 23d in the body length direction.

As shown in FIG. 8, when the fold-back portions 22a and 23a are folded back, a rectangular opening 24 is formed in the front body 21, which extends downward from the upper edge of the front body 21 in the body length direction. The width of the opening 24 is equal to the width W2 between the lower ends of the inclined portions S2.

Referring to FIG. 9, the front body 21 further includes a placket member 6 that is adjacent to the inside of the inner edge portions 22b, 23b in the body width direction of the folded-back portions 22a, 23a in the body width direction and extends along the body length direction of the body 2. The placket member 6 includes a pair of left and right placket members 61, 62 provided on the front body right portion 22 and the front body left portion 23, respectively. The pair of left and right placket members 61, 62 are overlapped openably and closably at approximately the center in the body width direction along the folded-back portions 22a, 23a, with a length that extends from the upper end portion in the body length direction to approximately the chest area.

The placket member 61 is located on the inside and is an inner member to which a button 6a for maintaining the overlap is attached. The placket member 62 is located on the outside and is an outer member 62 to which a buttonhole 6b through which the button 6a is inserted is provided. When the pair of left and right placket members 61, 62 are overlapped and in the placket closed state, the opening 24 of the front body 21 is covered from the outside by the pair of left and right placket members 61, 62.

Figure 10 is a cross-sectional perspective view taken along line X-X in Figure 9. In Figure 10, the thickness of the fabric piece is emphasized in order to make the structure of the front placket member 6 easier to understand. Referring to Figure 10, the inner member 61 and the outer member 62 are each formed into a bag shape by front placket parts 61a, 62a located on the front side of the body 2, and back placket parts 61c, 62c located on the back side of the front placket part 61a, continuing from inner ends 61b, 62b located on the inner ends in the body width direction of the front placket parts 61a, 62a, and extending outward in the body width direction. The inner member 61 and the outer member 62 are opposite in the left-right direction (inside and outside in the body width direction), but have roughly the same configuration, so only the inner member 61 will be described.

The front placket 61a has a main body 61d that is placed in the opening 24 and a seam allowance 61e that is sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a. The front placket 61a is sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a of the front body 21 between the main body 61d and the seam allowance 61e.

The main body 61d is rectangular in shape corresponding to the opening 24, and extends inward in the width direction from the inner edge 23b of the fold-back portion 23a to near the inner edge 22b of the fold-back portion 23a of the right front body 22. The width of the main body 61d in the width direction roughly matches the width W2 of the opening 24. The length L1 in the body length direction of the front placket portion 61a at the center of the width direction of the front body 21 is set longer than the length L2 of the opening 24 (see Figure 9).

The seam allowance 61e is continuous with the outer side of the body width direction of the main body 61d, and extends from the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a to the outer side in the body width direction. The width W3 of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction (the dimension from the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a to the outer end 61f of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction) is set to be smaller than the width W1 of the folded-back portion 22a (the dimension from the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a to the outer end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a in the body width direction). For example, it is preferable that the width W3 of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction is set to 0.4 or less than the width W1 of the folded-back portion 23a. Alternatively, it is preferable that the width W1 of the folded-back portion 23a is set to 5 mm or more greater than the width W3 of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction. In other words, it is preferable that the end 23c of the folded portion 23a and the outer end 61f of the seam portion 61e are spaced apart by 5 mm or more in the width direction. In this embodiment, the width W3 of the seam portion 61e in the width direction is set to 6 mm, and the width W1 of the folded portion 23a is set to 15 mm.

As shown in FIG. 9, the back placket 61c extends from the inner end 61b of the front placket 61a toward the outside in the body width direction, beyond the outer end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a. The inner end 61b of the back placket 61c is formed as a straight line extending in the body length direction along the opening 24.

As shown in FIG. 10, the outer end 61g of the back placket 61c has a straight portion 61h that extends in the body length direction along the opening 24 on the lower side of the body length direction, and a curved portion 61e that extends further upward from the upper end of the straight portion 61h to the upper edge 21b of the front body 21. The curved portion 61e curves outward in the body width direction toward the upper side of the body length direction. The outer end 61g of the back placket 61c expands in the body width direction from the lower side to the upper side of the body length direction. Therefore, the curved portion 61i of the outer end 61g of the back placket 61c is located more outward in the body width direction than the straight portion 61f, and the outer end 61g of the back placket 61c is separated from the outer end 23c of the folded-back portion 23a from the lower side to the upper side. In other words, the width of the lining placket 61c increases from the chest area located at the bottom in the body length direction to the collar area located at the top, so compared to when the outer end 61g of the lining placket 61c extends in the body length direction with the width of the straight portion 61h, it is easier to position the outer end 61g outside the wearer's collarbone area located in the center in the body width direction. This makes it easier to prevent discomfort caused by the outer end 61g abutting the collarbone area.

The width W4 in the body width direction from the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the back placket 61c to the outer end 61g in the body width direction is set to be larger than the width W1 of the folded portion 23a. For example, it is preferable that the width W4 is set to be 1.3 times or more the width W1 of the folded portion 23a. Alternatively, it is preferable that the width W4 is set to be 5 mm or more larger than the width W1. In other words, it is preferable that the end 23c of the folded portion 23a and the outer end 61g in the body width direction from the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the back placket 61c are spaced apart by 5 mm or more in the body width direction. In this embodiment, the width W4 is set to be 20 mm or more and 35 mm or less.

The outer end 61g of the back placket 61c is located outside the outer end 23c of the fold 23a and the outer end 61f of the seam allowance 61e in the body width direction. On the inside (wearer's side) of the polo shirt 1, the outer end 23c of the fold 23a and the outer end 61f of the front placket 61a are covered by the back placket 61c, so it looks beautiful from the inside.

9 and 10, in this embodiment, a strip-shaped interlining 63 extending in the body length direction along the placket member 6 is sandwiched between the front placket portion 61a and the back placket portion 61c. The interlining 63 is an adhesive interlining that is bonded to the front placket portion 61a, and the fabric is knit, 100% polyester, and the adhesive resin is polyamide resin or polyurethane resin. In this embodiment, the interlining 63 is in a so-called loose state, that is, it is not bonded to the back placket portion 61c and is left floating. The interlining 63 extends from the inner end portion 61b of the front placket portion 61a to the outside in the body width direction beyond the inner edge portion 23b of the folded portion 23a. The interlining 63 has the same body length direction dimension L1 as the inner member 61, and its width in the body width direction is larger than the width W2 of the opening 24. In other words, the outer end 63a of the interlining 63 is located outside the inner edge 23b of the folded-back portion 23a in the body width direction and inside the outer end 61f of the front placket portion 61a in the body width direction.

The interlining 63 is sewn to the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a of the front body 21, similar to the front placket 61a. In this embodiment, the interlining 63 is sewn to the front body 21 while being adhered to the front placket 61a. The width W5 from the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a to the outer end 63a of the interlining 63 is set to be smaller than the width W3 of the seam allowance 61e. For example, the width W5 is preferably set to 1/3 or less of the width W1 of the folded portion 23a, and in this embodiment, the width W5 is set to 5 mm. The width W3 may be the same as the width W5.

The inner member 61 and interlining 63 are sewn together along the inner edge 23b of the folded portion 23a while overlapping the outer surface of the left front body portion 23. When the folded portion 23a is folded back along the inner edge 23b while the inner member 61 and interlining 63 are sewn to the left front body portion 23, the folded portion 23a, the front placket portion 61a and seam allowance portion 61e, the interlining 63, and the inner placket portion 61c are overlapped on the inner side of the left front body portion 23 in this order from the outer side to the inner side.

As shown in FIG. 10, the folded end 23c on the outer side in the body width direction of the folded portion 23a, the outer end (front placket end) 61f on the outer side in the body width direction of the front placket portion 61a (seam allowance portion 61e), the outer end (back placket end) 61g on the outer side in the body width direction of the back placket portion 61c, and the outer end (back placket end) 63a on the outer side in the body width direction of the interlining 63 are positioned with a shift in the body width direction.

The polo shirt 1 constructed in this way has the following features:

According to the present invention, when the three fold pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded and overlapped on the collar body 51, the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 are formed into a bag-like shape along the fold lines by the fold pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51, except for the first long side 51a that is sewn to the body 2. Therefore, the cross section of the cut-off end of the parts does not appear on the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5, and peeling and yellowing of the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 at the peripheral edges of the collar 5 can be suppressed. In addition, compared to when the collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, and 54 are sewn together, this prevents the collar tip from bulging due to the collar body 51 and the folded pieces 52, 53, and 54 separating from each other, resulting in a collar 5 with excellent aesthetics.

The pair of main short sides 52c, 52d of the main fold piece 52 and the second sub-sides 53b, 54b of each of the sub-fold pieces 53, 54 are formed complementarily, so that when folded, the pair of main short sides 52c, 52d overlap with each of the second sub-sides 53b, 54b, preventing thickness differences (unevenness) in the collar 5 and allowing the formation of an aesthetically pleasing collar.

The peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, and 5d of the collar 5 are formed into a bag-like shape by the fold lines formed by the second long side 51b and the pair of short sides 51c and 51d, which helps prevent fraying, peeling, and yellowing from the peripheral edges 5a, 5b, 5c, and 5d of the collar 5. In particular, the apex 5f of the collar tip after the collar 5 is sewn to the body is formed by the intersection of the second long side 51b and the short sides 51c and 51d, which helps prevent fraying, peeling, and yellowing at the apex 5f of the collar tip.

The butt joint 55, where the pair of main short sides 52c, 52d and the pair of second minor sides 53b, 54b are butted together, extends from the apex 5f of the collar tip after the collar 5 is sewn to the body toward the first long side 51a that is sewn to the body of the collar body 51. As a result, the reinforcing tape 56 provided along this butt joint 55 functions as a so-called collar keeper to prevent the tip of the collar 5 from warping or losing its shape, so that the collar 5 can be prevented from losing its shape without the need for a separate member for the collar keeper.

In general, the placket member of a polo shirt is formed so that the positions in the body width direction of the folded outer end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the folded part formed by folding back the front body, the front placket end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the front placket part of the placket member that is sewn to the front body, and the back placket end, which is the outer end in the body width direction of the back placket part that continues from the inner end in the body width direction of the front placket part and is located on the back side of the front placket part, are aligned.

In this case, the concentration of the ends of multiple pieces of fabric around the placket of the front body may cause the concentration of the ends of the placket to appear as unintended unevenness on the front side, marring the aesthetic look, or the ends of the placket may come into contact with the wearer, causing discomfort. More specifically, the thickness of the fabric differs between the placket member, which is made up of multiple pieces of fabric (for example, four pieces: the front body, the fold-back portion, the front placket portion, and the back placket portion), and the front body (one piece), causing a step at the end of the placket member (the ends in the body width direction of the fold-back portion, the front placket portion, and the back placket portion). This step may appear on the front side, marring the aesthetic look, or the step may come into contact with the wearer, causing chafing.

In contrast, in the polo shirt 1 of this embodiment, the positions of the folded end 23c, the front placket end 61e, and the back placket end 61f in the body width direction are offset, so that the step of the placket can be reduced compared to when the folded end 23c, the front placket end 61e, and the back placket end 61f are aligned in the body width direction, and the discomfort felt by the wearer due to the concentration of multiple fabric ends around the placket of the front body can be reduced. More specifically, by shifting the positions of the fabric ends around the placket, the step around the placket relative to the front body is reduced from three layers (the folded end, the front placket, and the back placket) to one layer (only the back placket). Furthermore, even when an interlining is provided as in this embodiment, the position of the interlining end 63a in the body width direction is offset from the positions of the folded end 23c, the front placket end 61e, and the back placket end 61f, so the step is reduced from four pieces (foldback part, front placket, back placket, and interlining) to one piece (back placket). As a result, the step is prevented from appearing as an unintended unevenness on the front side, which would spoil the aesthetic look, and the appearance around the collar of a collared shirt can be improved. Furthermore, discomfort caused by the step coming into contact with the wearer can be suppressed.

The back placket end 61g is located on the outer side of the folded end 23c in the body width direction, so that on the inside (wearer side) of the polo shirt 1, the folded end 23c is covered by the back placket 61c, creating an aesthetically pleasing appearance from the inside.

The front placket end 61f is located inward in the width direction from the folded end 23c, so the folded end 23c and the front placket end 61f are located inward in the width direction from the back placket end 61g. This allows the back placket 61c to cover the folded end 23c and the front placket end 61f, making for a more aesthetically pleasing appearance from the inside. Also, compared to when the width W3 from the inner edge 23b to the front placket end 61f is set larger than the width W1 of the folded portion 23a, the area of the overlapping fabric in the placket, which creates a large step, can be reduced.

The width W5 from the inner edge 23b to the interlining end 63a can be set larger than the width W3 from the inner edge 23b to the front placket end 61f, reducing the area of the overlapping fabric that creates a large step in the placket.

The width of the lining placket 61c increases from the chest side located at the bottom in the body length direction to the collar side located at the top. This makes it easier to position the outer end 61g on the outside in the body width direction of the wearer's collarbone, which is located in the center in the body width direction, compared to when the outer end 61g of the lining placket 61c extends in the body length direction with the width of the straight section 61h. This makes it easier to prevent discomfort caused by the outer end 61g abutting the collarbone.

The width of the back placket end 61g is smoothly expanded by the curved portion 61i, which reduces the discomfort caused by the portion where the straight portion 61h changes to the curved portion 61i abutting on the wearer. Specifically, compared to when the curved portion 61i is continuous with the straight portion 61h and is configured as a straight line that slopes upward and outward in the width direction, corners are less likely to form between the straight portion 61h and the curved portion 61i, which reduces the discomfort caused by the corners abutting on the wearer.

In the above embodiment, the collar 5 is formed by adhesion, but this is not limited to the above. The collar 5 may be formed such that the collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are not adhered to each other and can be separated from each other. With this configuration, as in the case of being formed by adhesion, when the three folded pieces 52, 53, 54 are folded and overlapped on the collar body 51, the peripheral portions 5a, 5b, 5c, 5d of the collar 5 are formed by the folded pieces 52, 53, 54 and the collar body 51, except for the long side portion 5b that is sewn to the body, and are bag-shaped along the folding lines. Therefore, the cross section of the cut-off end of the part does not appear on the peripheral portion of the collar 5. Therefore, fraying of the peripheral portion of the collar is suppressed.

In the above embodiment, the collar 5 has been described as having a three-layer structure consisting of the collar body 51, the adhesive layer 57, and the folded pieces 52, 53, and 54, but this is not limited to the above. As shown in FIG. 11, a strip-shaped core material 58 corresponding to the collar body 51 may be sandwiched between the collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, and 54. In other words, the collar 5 may have a five-layer structure. The core material 58 is an adhesive core material that is adhered to the collar body 51, and is made of knitted fabric, 100% polyester, and adhesive resin, such as polyamide resin or polyurethane resin. In this case, by attaching adhesive tape 57 to both sides of the core material 58 in the thickness direction, the collar body 51 and each folded piece 52, 53, and 54 can be adhered via the core material 58. By arranging the core material 58 between the collar body 51 and the three folded pieces 52, 53, and 54, the collar 5 is prevented from losing its shape, and the shape of the collar 5 can be adjusted.

In the above embodiment, the angle a of the corner 5e is 90 degrees, but this is not limiting. As shown in FIG. 12(a), depending on the design of the collar, the angle a11 of the corner 105e may be an obtuse angle exceeding 90 degrees. In this case, the collar body 151 has a trapezoid shape in which the first long side 151b sewn to the body 2 is shorter than the second long side 151a, and the short sides 151c and 151d are inclined. As shown in FIG. 12(b), when sewn to the body 2, the angle between the pair of short sides 151c and 151d facing each other across the placket 6 is widened, creating a so-called wide collar.

Also, as shown in FIG. 13(a), the angle a21 of the corner 205e may be an acute angle less than 90 degrees. In this case, the collar body 251 has a trapezoid shape in which the first long side 251b sewn to the body 2 is longer than the second long side 251a, and the short sides 251c, 251d are inclined inward in the width direction from the top 205f toward the first long side 251b. As shown in FIG. 13(b), when sewn to the body 2, a pair of short sides 251c, 251d facing each other across the placket 6 can form a long collar 205 with a long corner 205e, or the angle between the pair of short sides 251c, 251d can be narrowed as shown by the two-dot chain line.

As shown by the two-dot chain line on the collar 5 on the right side of Figure 3, the corner 305e may be arc-shaped. In this case, when sewn to the body 2, a so-called round collar can be created. As shown by the two-dot chain line on the collar 5 on the left side of Figure 3, the corner 405e may be chamfered, with the corners rounded off.

In the above embodiment, a configuration was described in which interlining 63 is arranged between the front placket parts 61a, 62a and the back placket parts 61c, 62c of the placket member 6, but the interlining 63 does not necessarily have to be provided.

In the above embodiment, the placket member 6 is configured such that the folded end 23c, the front placket end 61e, and the back placket end 61f are offset from each other, but at least one of the front placket end 61e and the back placket end 61f may be offset from the folded end 23c.

In the above embodiment, the collared shirt is described as a polo shirt 1, but this is not limited thereto, and the collared shirt may be a dress shirt, a dress shirt, etc.

The polo shirt (collared shirt) 1 of the present invention is not limited to the configuration of the above-mentioned embodiment, and various modifications are possible.

1. Polo shirt (collared shirt)
2 Body 5 Collar 6 Front placket member 22 Right front body 23 Left front body 22a, 23a Folded-up portions 22b, 23b Inner edge portions 22c, 23c Folded end portion 51 Collar body 51a First long side portion 51b Second long side portion 51c, 51d Pair of short side portions 52 Main folded-up piece (folded-up piece)
52a: First main long side portion 52b: Second main long side portion 52c, 52d: Main short side portions 53, 54: Secondary folded pieces (folded pieces)
53a, 54a First sub-side portion 53b, 54b Second sub-side portion 53c, 54c Third sub-side portion 55 Joint portion 56 Reinforcement tape 58 Core 61a, 62a Front placket portion 61b, 62b Inner end portion 61c, 62c Back placket portion 61f, 62f Front placket end portion 61g, 62g Back placket end portion 61h Straight portion 61i Curved portion 63 Core 63a Core end portion

Claims (5)

The body and
a collar sewn to the body, the collar having a band-shaped collar body constituting a first surface located on the front side in a normal state with the collar tip facing downward, and three fold-back pieces provided continuously with the collar body and folded back on the collar body to constitute a second surface located on the back side in the normal state,
the collar body has a first long side portion sewn to the body, a second long side portion opposed to the first long side portion, and a pair of short side portions connecting the first long side portion and the second long side portion,
The three folded pieces are provided on the second long side portion and the pair of short side portions ,
The three folded pieces include a main folded piece continuous with the second long side portion and a pair of sub folded pieces continuous with the pair of short side portions, respectively;
the main folded piece has a first main long side portion consisting of the second long side portion around which the main folded piece is folded, a second main long side portion parallel to the first main long side portion, and a pair of main short side portions connecting the first main long side portion and the second main long side portion,
Each of the pair of minor folded pieces has a first minor side portion formed of the pair of short side portions around which the minor folded piece is folded, a second minor side portion inclined complementarily to the main short side portion when folded, and a third minor side portion extending along the first long side portion.
Collared shirt. 2. The collared shirt according to claim 1 , wherein the collar is formed by bonding the collar body and the three cuff pieces together. The collar body and the three folded pieces are not bonded to each other, and are separable from each other, and the three folded pieces are sewn to the collar body.
2. The collared shirt of claim 1 . The collar comprises:
a butt joint portion in which the pair of main short side portions of the main folded piece and the pair of second minor side portions of the minor folded pieces are butted together and bonded to each other;
a reinforcing tape provided so as to extend along the butted portion;
2. The collared shirt of claim 1, comprising: 2. The collared shirt according to claim 1, further comprising a padding material between said collar body and said three folded pieces.

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