JPH0730487B2 - Spun-like composite bulky yarn - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention provides a single-twisted part obtained by false-twisting a different-color false-twisted two-layer structure yarn made of synthetic fiber filament yarn as a core, and the filament yarn. The present invention relates to a spun-like composite bulky yarn in which a double twist portion is shared within the same yarn.

[Prior Art] Conventionally, various researches and efforts have been made to make spun-like woven fabrics and bulky woven fabrics by using synthetic filament yarns and other long fiber yarns. Among them, false-twisted composite yarn having a slab or nep by over-feeding and winding a sheath yarn around a core yarn that runs in a false-twisted region of false-twisting and its manufacturing method are disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 50-35147. Beginning with what was proposed, after that, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 60-199936, the single-twisted portion (ground portion;
A "slab yarn" which is a yarn composed of a single twist portion (corresponding to the present invention) and a triple spiral portion (slab portion; corresponding to the Gubru twist portion according to the present invention), in which the diameter of the slab is always larger than that of the single twist portion (Krand portion). It is. Further, these techniques are intended to change the texture by defining the number of residual twists in the single-twisted portion, which is the ground portion, and changing the form and length of the slab. Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 60-173130 proposes to prevent the slab from slipping or moving by twisting the covering with another yarn. The textured yarn obtained by this method only exhibits a texture due to the twisting effect, and is far from a warm feeling as clothing for autumn and winter. Apart from this, Japanese Examined Japanese Patent Publication 61-1973
No. 3 and No. 61-19737 propose a false twist two-layer structure yarn aiming at a spiral warm feeling. This processed yarn is excellent in bulkiness, but fluffiness precedes a little,
In general, it is often used as a woven fabric after additional twisting in the twisting process because it lacks in drooping property.

In order to eliminate these drawbacks, the present applicant has filed Japanese Patent Application No. 61-16
In Japanese Patent No. 9865 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-28928), a gland portion formed by winding a sheath yarn around a core yarn in a single spiral shape and 3
In a false-twisted textured design yarn having a slab portion wound in multiple spirals of multiple or more weights, a carded specially textured yarn having a design effect, in which a false-twisted two-layer structure yarn having a bulge is arranged as the core yarn, is proposed. did. This specially-processed yarn has a feeling and feel that is completely different from that of the above-mentioned slab yarn or false twisted two-layer structure yarn. It turned out to be far from producing depth (color mixing effect).

[Purpose] An object of the present invention is to provide a processed yarn that is comparable to natural fibers both in terms of texture and hue in both name and reality.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a textured yarn which has a warm and warm sensation of autumn-winter sensation and has both drape and repulsion.

[Structure] As a result of intensive studies aimed at achieving the above object, the present inventors have found that in the above-mentioned worsted specially processed yarn, a specific dyeing behavior between the core yarn and the winding yarn as the false twist two-layer structure yarn. those having a difference, i.e. ionic dye non dyeable polyester multifilament of (F ₁₎ a core portion, not dyeable polyester multifilament ionic dye around it (F ₁₎ an ionic dye When dyed polyester filament (F ₂ ) and a false twist two-layer structure yarn composed of a sheath portion are adopted as the core yarn, it was studied that both hue and texture could be compatible.

Thus, according to the present invention, the filament yarn 1 having a small elongation constitutes the core portion, and the filament yarn 2 having a large elongation is arranged around the core portion in the alternately twisted yarn state to form the middle layer portion, Moreover, a part of both filament yarns are mixed with each other at the boundary between the core and the middle layer,
In the false twist two-layer structure yarn 3 formed by interlacing and forming the entangled portion, the filament 4 forming the third layer portion further has a single twist portion (A portion) in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and in the length direction of the yarn. A false-twisting three-layer spun-like composite bulky yarn 5 comprising a double-cross twisting portion (B portion) wound around the upper layer portion of the single-twisting portion (A portion) as one reciprocating double-cross twist, (a) the false twisting 2-layer structure yarns polyester multifilament not dyeable ionic dye (F ₁₎ a core portion, dyeable and the ionic dye non dyeable polyester multifilament (F ₁₎ around its ionic dye Polyester multifilament (F ₂ ) is used as a sheath portion, and (b) single twist portion (A portion) and double cross twist portion (B)
(B) A spun-like composite bulky yarn characterized by having an irregularity in the winding pitch of a single twist (B / A <1.0).

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

FIG. 1 is a side view of a composite bulky fancy yarn obtained by processing in the twisting direction Z in the false twisting process of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a side view of a false twist two-layer structure yarn which is a core yarn in the present invention. FIG. 3 is a side view of a conventional composite yarn composed of a single-winding and triple-winding slab composed of a flat filament yarn, and FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing a process for producing a spunlike composite bulky yarn of the present invention. The diagrams and FIGS. 5 to 9 are electron micrographs (× 40) showing parts A and B of the composite bulky yarns obtained in Examples 1 to 5 of the present invention, respectively.

In FIG. 1, a false twisting two-layer structure yarn 3 composed of a filament yarn 1 having a low elongation and a filament yarn 2 having a high elongation is used as a core yarn, and another flat filament yarn 4 is used as a winding yarn, and a false twisting process is performed. In the twisting direction Z and the untwisting direction S
FIG. 3 is a side view of the spun-like composite bulky yarn 5 obtained by processing in step A, where part A is a single twist part in which yarn 3 and yarn 4 are twisted into a single, and part B is a yarn 4 around the part A.
Is a double-cross twisted part that is wound back and forth in the length direction of the yarn and twisted into a double cross.

Here, the filament 1 having low elongation is made of polyester filament F ₁ which is non-staining to ionic dye, while the yarn 2 having high elongation is polyester multifilament (F ₁ ) which is non-staining to ionic dye. It consists of polyester multifilament (F ₂ ) (usually F ₁ and F ₂ are mixed) that is dyeable to ionic dyes.

Although such a false twist two-layer structure yarn is originally known to have a heather-like color effect (Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-21616), this two-layer structure yarn has a filament 4 especially F ₁
And yarns with a gloss higher than that of F ₂ (substantially no added amount of TiO ₂ filament yarn ... Super bright yarn), filament yarns having different dyeability from either F ₁ or F ₂ (eg ionic dyes) Dyeable polyester, polyamide filament), natural fiber acetate, rayon,
When cupra or the like is used, the heather effect is completely lost in the whole composite bulky yarn, and a color sensation very similar to the hue of natural fiber is expressed. The false twist two-layer structure yarn 3 itself may be the one described in the above-mentioned JP-B-61-19733, JP-A-61-31216, and further JP-B-59-21970.

On the other hand, the structural feature of this composite bulky yarn is that in the single-twisted portion (A portion), the filament yarn 2 of the second layer yarn is extended in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn as shown in FIG. The yarn diameter (thickness of the yarn) of the composite fancy yarn 5 is increased in a state of being disturbed, twisted and curled. One of the reasons for this is that the twist number of the A part is low. In particular, when the residual twist coefficient Tk is in the range of 0.1 to 0.4, the above-mentioned overhang is emphasized. By the way, (The core yarn de is the de twist of the false twist two-layer structure yarn). Compared with this, the double cross twist part (B part) is the filament yarn 4
Crosses as a reciprocal twist in the length direction of the yarn and becomes a double, so that the second layer yarn does not overhang in the cross-sectional direction of the filament yarn 2 and its diameter becomes smaller than that of the A portion. , "Fabric yarn" does not form "slabs" in terms of thickness. On the other hand, in the case of the conventional yarn, as shown in FIG. 3, there is a clear difference in thickness between the single twist portion (A 'portion) and the triple spiral portion (B' portion), and the yarn as a whole is It becomes "slab thread".

Furthermore, the present invention is also characterized in that the twist pitch in the single twisted portion (A portion) is random as shown by t ₁ , t ₂ , t ₃ .

Next, a method for producing the spun-like composite bulky yarn of the present invention will be described.

FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the process for producing the bulky yarn of the present invention.
At the same time as false twisting the layered structure yarn 3 as the core yarn, the filament yarn 4 is guided by the roller 6 by a certain amount of overfeed.
The filament yarn 4 is wound around the core yarn 3 and twisted by the turning torque of the core yarn 3 supplied from the position of the false twist spindle 8. The overfeed amount at this time is 1.3 times that of the core yarn.
Supply at a constant speed in the range of 2 to 1.9 times. If the amount of overfeed is less than 1.3 times, the number of residual twists is too small and a satisfactory texture cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1.9 times, the number of residual twists increases too much and the yarn becomes hard and tight. Of course, it goes without saying that the amount of overfeed is proportional to the number of false twists.

Here, a difference occurs in the twist propagation from the conventional yarn. That is, the core yarn 3 is a yarn that has been formed into a two-layer structure yarn in the false twisting process, and the second layer yarn is laid around in an alternate twisted yarn shape, and at the same time, it is mixed with the filament yarn of the first layer yarn to be interlaced. Since the entangled portion is formed by forming the entangled portion, there is a partial difference in the surface abrasion resistance of the yarn 3 which is the core yarn and the torsional rigidity of the yarn. Therefore, the twisting of the filament yarn 4 causes a difference in the speed of twist propagation, and θ ₂
There is also a difference in the speed of movement from to θ ₁ , resulting in a difference in the twisted pitch, that is, the angle of twist, resulting in a state in which the twist angle is changed.

In this respect, in the conventional yarn, since the straight filament yarn that does not change at all in the part is used as the core, the filament yarn is wound at an equal pitch, and as a result, the twisting effect as if twisted by a general twisting machine is obtained. It becomes a certain thread.

In addition, by fixing the core yarn 3 with the roller 9 and the roller 10, and rotating and twisting with the spinner 11 in the middle,
The yarn 3 receives tension due to twisting. However, the core yarn 3 itself is a two-layer structured yarn composed of the core yarn 1 and the winding yarn 2, and tension is applied around the core yarn 1 and almost no tension is applied to the second layer yarn 2. From this, the second layer yarn projects in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn from the gap around which the filament yarn 4 forming the third layer is wound, and becomes a curled fluff of filament. This feature is also an important feature that creates warm feeling and single fiber.

Next, regarding the double cross twisted portion (B portion), the portion that has been twisted once (where the filament 4 is wound) has strong torsional rigidity, and since the twist propagation is fast, the winding speed of the filament 4 is fast, a more than twice the speed of winding around the layer eyes, that it by twisting angle varies the speed of wind around toward the time and theta ₂ which the reciprocating motion of the sweet will theta ₁ through? ₂ is directed to the theta _1. Although the speed is different, the filament 6 is supplied by the roller 6 in a constant amount, so that the twist angle becomes less and the double cross twist is obtained. In other words, it is a triple layered "slab" as in the past.
(Fig. 3) does not occur. Moreover, since it is a double cross twist, the second layer yarn having a large elongation is hampered in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn like the single twist portion.

In the present invention, by setting the overfeed amount to a low value of 1.3 to 1.9 times, the second yarn can be wrapped around the core yarn.
The overtwist amount is controlled / suppressed and the false twist coefficient K is set to 0.
It is characterized in that it is maintained at a level of 5 to 0.8, which is lower than before. At that time, the heating temperature may be low because the double-layer structure yarn that is false twisted all over is used, and it is effective at 80 ° C to 180 ° C. As the effect of false twisting at a low temperature, not only polyester but also cupra, acetate, nylon and various different fiber yarns can be compounded, and the superior characteristics of each fiber can be sufficiently exhibited.

[Operation / Effect] (a) In the spun-like composite bulky yarn according to the present invention, the single twisted portion (A portion) is extremely swollen, while the double cross twisted portion (B portion) is narrowed, both of which are It has a natural surface effect due to the randomly arranged yarn structure. Along with this, the false twisted two-layer structure yarn (core yarn) has a heather tone, but the filament 4 having a different color wraps around the yarn, so that when it is dyed, it has a heathering effect comparable to that of natural fiber. Is expressed.

(B) The effect of (b) above is further amplified by the twist having a natural twist, in which the twist pitch of the single twist portion is irregular and the regularity of the conventional equal pitch is destroyed.

As a technique similar to the present invention, it is known to use a Taslan yarn composed of minute loops as a core yarn (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Sho 60).
-199936), a false twist two-layer structure yarn composed of two yarns having different degrees of elongation has a completely different action and effect. The false twist two-layer structure yarn is the same as Japanese Patent Publication No. 61.
As can be seen in the publication No. 11973, it is clearly distinguished from the Taslan yarn. In the case of Taslan yarn, filament cannot extend beyond the wound yarn in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn. This is because the filament loop itself is a minute loop and is easily covered by the wound yarn.

On the other hand, in the false twist two-layer structure yarn used in the present invention, the yarn having a high elongation constituting the second layer has the twist direction S.
・ Since it is reversed from Z and does not receive tension during false twisting,
By winding the filament yarn 4, an overhanging portion is induced in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn, resulting in a bulky textured yarn that has not been considered until now.

On the other hand, the conventional core-sheath slab yarn (Fig. 3) does not have bulkiness and warmth feeling, and priority is given to hardness, and it is filled with warmth as a material for autumn and winter. Not done.

The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned defects that are rough, and to rationally incorporate the advantages of both of them, and to provide a completely new bulky yarn that has never been available for the full season.

That is, by winding a flat and elastic long fiber yarn around the yarn shown in FIG. 2, the single twist portion (A portion) mainly swells and bulky, and the double cross twist portion (B portion) mainly imparts the twisting effect. As a result, without erasing the drape and the bulge, the yarn with higher elongation of the second layer yarn 2 overhangs from the cross-sectional direction of the yarn to increase the span-like feeling (short fiber effect), and double cross twist It is characterized by forming a double-class twist that cannot be said to be a "slab," which can express the twisting effect even further in the part.

(C) In the woven fabric in which the bulky yarn of the present invention is used for the warp and / or the weft, the single twist portion (A portion) and the double cross twist portion (B portion) of the third layer yarn 4 are It is said to be an "insect bug" effect due to a change in the incident angle of light to the surface of the fabric due to the fact that there is no difference in the thickness of the A part and the B part, and there is no difference in the thickness of the A part and the B part is thin. Difference in gloss occurs (Since the slab is three-dimensionally projected on the surface of the fabric with the conventional "slab" yarn, the three-dimensional slab can be visually perceived as three-dimensional even if the light incident angle changes). That is, in the present invention, the double cloth portion is not three-dimensionally regarded as a slab, and it is possible to obtain a spun-like woven fabric that looks the same color or different colors and has an "iridescent" effect.

As a remarkable effect of the processed yarn of the present invention, false twist 2 is applied to the core yarn.
By using the layered structure yarn, the second layer yarn protrudes in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn, and as a result, regardless of the presence or absence of thermoplasticity,
Slip between yarns by alternately forming single-twisted parts and double-crossed twisted parts using rayon, cupra, and other different fiber threads such as acetate, nylon, or silk as the thread constituting the third layer. Can be prevented (due to the effect that the second layer yarn has the fold-out). This means that it succeeded in forming a composite with another fiber, which was not successful due to slippage until now, and can exhibit the superior properties of other fiber yarns.

[Example] Example 1 In the process shown in Fig. 4, as the core yarn 3, the false twist two-layer structure yarn 301de / 102fil described in Example 1 of JP-B-61-31216 was used, and the wound yarn was made of polyester. Super Bright 75de / 36f
False twist number = 1224 T / M (K = 0.73) overfeed amount (OF) 50%, first heater temperature = 160 ° C., second heater temperature = 160 ° C., core yarn 3 and winding fulcrum 7 Vertical distance l = 3
False twisting was performed under the condition that the winding angle α was 65 ° at 20 mm. In the obtained composite bulky yarn, the diameter of the single twisted portion (A portion) is
1.3mm, on the other hand, the diameter of the double cross twist part (B part) is 0.4mm and it is thin (Fig. 5), which is the result of tightening with the winding thread (75de) (in the case of the prior art, the double cross twist part). Is thicker than the grant part due to triple spiral layering, which is one difference from the bulky yarn of the present invention). That is, the filament is wound around the swelled processed yarn having a two-layer structure as a core. At this time, the filament, which is the winding yarn, is combined with the surface change of the core yarn and the fact that the false twisting tension substantially acts only on the core yarn. The filament of the yarn is wound at an irregular pitch. At that time, the false twist coefficient K is set to a low value of 0.8 or less, and the single twist portion is expanded. On the other hand, the double cross twisted portion (B portion) is the result of processing under α = 65 ° and OF = 50% at the time of processing (of course, lower temperature).

Furthermore, the length of the single twist portion (A portion) of the yarn is 500 mm to 8
Over a length of 00 mm, the average length is 690 mm, and the double cross twist part (B
Part) has a length of 40 mm to 150 mm, an average length of 120 mm, and the remaining twist coefficient of the part A is Tk = 0.11. The obtained yarn is spunlike and has a high slab-free fancy yarn. became.

In the above-mentioned processed yarn, the change in the twist pitch of the single twisted portion (A portion) was 1.5 mm in the dense portion and 35 mm in the rough portion. Here, the core thread 3 is a heather-like discoloration thread,
Since the filament 4 is wound around this at an irregular pitch, the heather condition expressed by the irregularity of the twist pitch is extremely natural, eliminating the irritability of the conventional uniform heather. The effect was expressed.

When the bulky yarn of the present invention is used for the warp and 301de / 102fil is used for the weft, the change in the fabric surface, that is, the ingle twisted portion (A portion)
The effect of the "Ibushi" caused by the interaction between the double cross twist portion (B portion) and the fancy fabric having a warm feeling with a high bulkiness was obtained.

Example 2 The same false-twisted two-layer structure yarn as in Example 1 was used as the core yarn, and the false-twisting process was carried out using acetate 75de-20fil as the wound yarn, which was the same as the case of the polyester filament yarn 75de (of Example 1). It was a fancy yarn with a variety of structural changes, and an excellent bulky composite yarn in which the brilliance and texture of acetate were added was obtained. In the yarn, the diameter and length (average) of the single twist portion (A portion) are 0.56 mm and 500 m, respectively.
The diameter and length of the m and double cross twist portions (B portion) were 0.44 mm and 116 mm, respectively, and the residual twist coefficient Tk of the single twist portion (A portion) was 0.14 (Fig. 6).

The false twist conditions are the number of twists = 1224 T / M (k = 0.73), OF = 50
%, L = 320 mm, winding angle α = 65 °, heater temperature = 150
℃ was made. Although the heater temperature is much lower than the processing temperature of polyester, a bulky bulky fancy yarn was obtained due to the bulkiness of the false twist double-layer structure yarn as the core yarn.

Example 3 The same core yarn as in Example 1 was used, and the wound yarn was rayon 75.
When using de / 33fil, false twisting can be performed at a lower heater temperature (80 ° C) than when using acetate yarn, and the characteristic drape property, gloss, and texture of rayon are added. A bulky fancy yarn was obtained.
In the yarn, the diameter and length of the single twist portion (A portion) are 0.70 mm and 547 mm, respectively, and the diameter and length of the double cross twist portion (B portion) are 0.38 mm and 13 respectively.
5 mm, and the residual twist coefficient T of the single twist section (A section)
k was 0.14 (Fig. 7).

The false twist conditions are the number of twists = 1224 T / M (k = 0.73), OF = 50
%, L = 320 mm, winding angle α = 65 °, heater temperature = 80
℃ was made.

Example 4 When the false twisted two-layer structure yarn used in Example 1 is used as the core yarn and Polytelletz Super Bright 75-33fil (porous fiber: JP-A-56-91008) is used as the winding yarn. The composite bulky yarn, which has good dye absorption and is particularly vivid in black, is suitable for formal applications. In the yarn, a single twist portion (A
Part) diameter and length are 0.40 mm and 442 m, respectively
The diameter and length of the m and double cross twist portions (B portion) were 0.30 mm and 66 mm, respectively, and the residual twist coefficient Tk of the single twist portion (A portion) was 0.12. (Fig. 8).

The false twist conditions are false twist number = 1239 T / M (α = 0.74), OF
= 50%, l = 230 mm, winding angle α = 60 °, heater temperature = 150 ° C. Next, the same false twist 2 layer structure yarn 110de / 3 for warp
When weaving 9fil yarn and weft into which weft was applied, there was a gloss difference due to the difference in the light-entry angle on the fabric surface between the single twisted part and the double crossed twisted part, and the "Ibushi" effect was developed. did.

Example 5 The false twist two-layer structure yarn used in Example 1 is used as the core yarn, and the cationic dye dyeable polyester 75de / 24fil is used as the winding yarn,
False twist number = 1707 T / M (α = 1), OF = 85%, heater temperature = 160 ° C., second heater temperature = 160 ° C., l = 200 mm, winding angle α = 60 ° A bulky fancy yarn that does not form a slab was obtained. In the yarn, the diameter and length of the single twist portion (A portion) are 1.00 mm and 650 mm, respectively, and the diameter and length of the double cross twist portion (B portion) are 0.5 mm and 140 mm, respectively. The residual twist coefficient Tk of the part (A part) was 0.11.
Figure).

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a side view of a spunlike composite bulky yarn of the present invention, FIG. 2 is a side view of a heathered false twist two-layer structure yarn which is a core yarn of the bulky yarn, and FIG. 3 is a side view of a conventional slab yarn. , 4th
The figures are schematic diagrams showing the process for producing the spun-like composite bulky yarn of the present invention, and FIGS. 5 to 9 are examples 1 to 1 of the present invention, respectively.
FIG. 4 is an electron micrograph (40 times) showing the parts A and B of the composite bulky yarn obtained in Example 5. In FIG. 1, 1 (F ₁ ) ... Heather-like false-twisted yarn 2 (F ₁ + F ₂ ) ... Heather-like false-twisted yarn 2 that is non-staining to the ionic dye that is the core of the two-layer structure yarn 3 Polyester filament yarn 3 composed of a polyester filament F ₁ which is non-staining to an ionic dye and a filament F ₂ which is dyeable to an ionic dye, which is a sheath portion of the layer structure yarn 3 ...... Heather-like false twist two-layer structure yarn 4 ...... Wound yarn for the two-layer structured yarn 5 ...... Spun-like composite bulky yarn A portion ...... Single twist portion t _{1 to 6} ...... Wound pitch of the wrap yarn 4 portion B ...... Double cross twist portion

Continuation of front page (56) References JP-A-60-199936 (JP, A) JP-A-57-21526 (JP, A)

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A filament yarn 1 having a small elongation constitutes a core portion, and a filament yarn 2 having a large elongation is wound around the core portion in an alternately twisted yarn state to form an intermediate layer portion, and a core portion The filament yarn 4 forming the third layer portion is further wound around the false twist two-layer structure yarn 3 in which a part of both filament yarns are mixed with each other at the boundary portion of the middle and middle layers Thus, the filament 4 constituting the third layer portion has a single twist portion (A portion) in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and a double cross twist of one reciprocation in the upper layer portion of the single twist portion (A portion) in the length direction of the yarn. A false twisted three-layer spun-like composite bulky yarn 5 comprising a double cross twisted part (B part) formed by winding (a) the false twisted two-layer structure yarn is a polyester multifilament (F ₁ ) is the core, and the surrounding area is not dyed with ionic dyes. Polyester multifilament (F ₁ ) and polyester multifilament (F ₂ ) dyeable to ionic dyes are used as the sheath portion, and (b) single twisted portion (A portion) and double cross twisted portion ( B
Part) diameter ratio B / A <1.0, (c) Spun-like composite bulky yarn characterized by irregular winding pitch of single twist. 2. The spunlike composite according to claim 1, wherein the filament 4 is a filament selected from the group consisting of super bright polyester filament, polyamide filament yarn, natural fiber silk, acetate rayon and cupra. Bulky yarn. 3. The residual twist coefficient Tk of the single twist portion (A portion) is 0.
In the range 1 to 0.4 The spun-like composite bulky yarn according to claim (1).